Ex Nihilo
Brompton Immortals Extrait
The Story
The extrait holds the same reference, a tribute to Harrods on Brompton Road built on the Egyptian legend of immortality, at a concentration that lets the rose and vanilla sit heavier. Jordi Fernández keeps the structure and lowers the centre of gravity.
Warm Spicy
Glowing embers of the spice drawer
The rounded heat of cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg, dry and slightly resinous, like a baking pantry rather than a sharp kitchen. It creates a flushed, enveloping warmth that feels intimate and cool-weather, hugging the skin from within.
White Floral
Heady blooms, narcotic and creamy
Lush, creamy petals that turn heady and almost narcotic, with a ripe, indolic sweetness edged in green and a hint of overripe fruit. It feels sensual and intoxicating, the kind of bloom that fills a room and lingers on warm skin.
Patchouli
Damp earth and dark cocoa
A deep, earthy darkness that smells of damp soil, dry wood, and a faint bitter-sweet cocoa, with a cool, almost camphorous edge. It feels grounding and a little mysterious, lending weight and shadow to whatever it touches.
Woody
Dry grain of cut timber
The smell of cedar shavings, sandalwood, and dry vetiver roots, a sanded, resinous warmth with a faint pencil-box rasp. It feels grounded and composed, the quiet backbone that makes a scent read as serious and lasting.
Vanilla
Creamy bean steeped in warmth
The soft, custardy sweetness of cured vanilla pods, rich and balsamic with a faint boozy, smoky depth beneath the cream. It feels comforting and skin-warm, a tender glow that smooths and rounds everything it touches.
Musky
Warm breath of clean skin
A soft, slightly animalic warmth that smells like clean skin and freshly dried laundry, intimate and faintly sweet. It hums quietly underneath a fragrance, lending a sensual, second-skin closeness that feels personal and lingering.
Saffron
Crimson threads breathing leather, honey and dry hay
What it is
Saffron is the dried stigma of Crocus sativus, a purple autumn-flowering crocus in the iris family. Each bloom yields just three slender crimson threads, plucked by hand. The dried threads are steeped into a tincture or solvent-extracted into an absolute to capture their aromatic oil for perfumery.
How it smells
Warm and dry at first, with hay, honey and toasted bread, then a metallic, leathery edge driven by the molecule safranal. Beneath runs a bittersweet, faintly medicinal earthiness and a soft rubbery warmth. It opens spicy and golden, drying into suede, tobacco and dusty amber.
In perfumery
Saffron works in the heart, bridging spice and leather and lending a glowing, reddish warmth. It pairs classically with rose, oud, amber and tobacco. Whole leathery accords can be built around it, and it is often wed to rose for a rich, spiced-floral effect.
Good to know
Saffron is the costliest spice on earth, and nothing else in the trade comes near it by weight. A single kilogram demands roughly 150,000 hand-picked flowers and many days of stooped labor. Most perfumery saffron is reconstructed from synthetic safranal or saffron bases, since the natural extract is too rare and expensive to use widely.
Pink Pepper
Bright rosy berries with a sparkling spice fizz
What it is
Pink pepper is the dried berry of the Peruvian pepper tree Schinus molle, native to the Andes and a member of the cashew family Anacardiaceae, not a true pepper. The rose-colored berries are steam-distilled or CO2-extracted into an oil dominated by alpha-phellandrene, limonene and pinene.
How it smells
Bright, dry and sparkling, more rosy and fruity than black pepper, with only a soft prickle of spice. Crushed-berry, juniper-like resin and faint citrus facets give a fizzy, airy lift. It flashes peppery on top, then fades quickly into a gentle warm spiciness.
In perfumery
A favoured top-to-heart note that adds effervescent spice and a rosy glow without heat or bite. It brightens florals, freshens woods and ambers, and pairs with rose, bergamot and patchouli. Its sparkle opens many modern scents, notably the tea-and-bergamot top of bright fruity-floral bombs.
Good to know
Despite the name, these berries are botanically unrelated to true pepper, Piper nigrum; the resemblance is purely aromatic. As an Anacardiaceae cousin of cashew and mango, Schinus can trigger reactions in people sensitive to that family, so culinary use of the berries is best in moderation.
Lysylang
Solar ylang turned tropical, coconut-creamy and floral
What it is
Lysylang is a specialty ingredient from the house of Robertet, derived from ylang-ylang (Cananga odorata) rather than fully synthetic. It is made by fractionating Ylang III oil from the Indian Ocean, then selecting and recombining specific fractions to isolate a particular fruity-floral character.
How it smells
A soft, radiant fruity-floral built on ylang-ylang, with frangipani and jasmine nuances and a creamy tropical coconut and monoi undertone. Delicate spicy, lily-like facets thread through it. Against raw ylang it is smoother, sweeter and more solar, with less of the sharp banana-like medicinal top.
In perfumery
A heart-note material adding suave, sunlit tropical volume to white-floral and solar compositions. It rounds and naturalises ylang accords and partners well with jasmine, tuberose, coconut, salicylates and soft musks, lending the warm beach-flower glow found in many modern solar and exotic-floral fragrances.
Good to know
Ylang-ylang is distilled in successive fractions graded Extra, then First, Second and Third as distillation continues, each with a different odour. Lysylang shows how perfumers harvest value from a lower third fraction, refining and recombining it into a distinctive raw material rather than discarding it.
Jasmine
The heady white flower at perfumery's beating heart
What it is
Jasmine is the blossom of climbing shrubs in the olive family, chiefly Jasminum grandiflorum, grown in Egypt, India and Morocco, plus Jasminum sambac from India. The fragile flowers are picked by hand from before first light into the morning, solvent-extracted with hexane into a waxy concrete, then washed with ethanol to yield the absolute.
How it smells
A warm, lush white floral, sweet and honeyed with an animalic underside. Sambac leans green, tea-like and luminous; grandiflorum reads fruitier and creamier, with more weight. Both carry a heady, narcotic richness over a green-fruity opening, drying to a soft, skin-warm, faintly mushroomy-musky base.
In perfumery
A heart-note cornerstone, bridging citrus tops and woody bases while lending volume, sensuality and rounded floral body. It pairs with rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood and musk. Jasmine anchors many of the great classic florals and can stand alone as a radiant soliflore.
Good to know
Roughly five thousand hand-picked flowers yield a single gram of absolute, ranking natural jasmine among the costliest perfume materials. Part of its depth comes from indole, a molecule that smells frankly animalic, close to decay, when concentrated, yet reads radiant and living at the small percentage the flower naturally holds.
Bulgarian Rose
The fresh dawn breath of the Rose Valley
What it is
The flower of Rosa damascena, grown chiefly around Kazanlak in central Bulgaria's Rose Valley. Blossoms are hand-picked from before sunrise into the morning, then either steam-distilled into rose otto or solvent-extracted into a deep-red absolute. Roughly three to four tonnes of blossoms yield a single kilogram of otto.
How it smells
Bright, dewy and honeyed, with a green lemony lift on top over a spicy, velvety heart. Compared with Turkish rose it reads fresher and clearer. As it settles, a faint clove-like warmth and a waxy, black-tea softness surface beneath the petals.
In perfumery
A heart note prized for transparency and natural radiance, paired with patchouli, oud, sandalwood or fruity notes like lychee. The otto can crystallise in cool weather. It anchors many of the great rose-centered compositions, lending lifelike floral depth.
Good to know
Harvest runs only three to four weeks from mid-May into June, and pickers work before sunrise because the day's heat evaporates the volatile oils. That tiny, weather-dependent window, plus the tonnes of blossoms needed per kilo, makes rose otto one of perfumery's costliest naturals.
Patchouli
Damp earth and dark wood after rain
What it is
Patchouli comes from Pogostemon cablin, a leafy bush in the mint family native to tropical Asia and grown overwhelmingly in Indonesia, with smaller crops in India and elsewhere in tropical Asia. The harvested leaves are dried and lightly cured or fermented, then steam-distilled or hydrodistilled into a thick, dark essential oil.
How it smells
Deeply earthy and woody, like damp forest floor, wet soil and old cellars, threaded with a winey, slightly sweet darkness. Fresh oil can read sharp, almost camphorous and green; with age it rounds into chocolate, leather and dried-fruit warmth that clings for hours.
In perfumery
A base note and powerful fixative, patchouli anchors a composition and lengthens its wear. It forms the backbone of chypres and orientals, pairing with rose, vetiver, labdanum and vanilla. It defines many gourmand-oriental blends and carries the woody-balsamic heart of plush chypre accords.
Good to know
In the 19th century, real Kashmiri shawls were packed with dried patchouli leaves to repel moths in transit, so Europeans learned to recognise genuine imports by smell. Unlike most essential oils, patchouli improves with age, deepening and mellowing over years much like wine.
Vanilla
The warm sweet heart of comfort itself
What it is
Vanilla comes from the cured seed pods of Vanilla planifolia, a climbing orchid native to Mexico and Central America, now grown mainly in Madagascar and Indonesia; the vanilla of Tahiti is a different species, Vanilla x tahitensis. Green pods are picked unripe, then blanched, sweated in the sun and slow-dried over months until they darken and develop their aroma and vanillin.
How it smells
Sweet, warm and creamy, with a balsamic depth recalling custard, caramel and dried fruit, a faint smoky tobacco-like edge sitting underneath. It opens soft and gourmand, then dries into a powdery resinous warmth that clings close to skin and reads richer than synthetic vanillin alone.
In perfumery
A base note prized for richness and lasting warmth, vanilla rounds sharp edges and anchors oriental and gourmand compositions. It pairs naturally with tonka, amber, sandalwood and spice. Many of the most enduring oriental and tobacco fragrances build their core around it.
Good to know
Vanilla ranks among the costliest spices because each orchid flower opens for one day and must be hand-pollinated, a technique devised in 1841 by Edmond Albius, a twelve-year-old enslaved boy on Réunion. Most commercial vanilla flavor now relies on synthetic vanillin.
Olibanum
Sun-baked resin tears that smell of sacred smoke
What it is
Olibanum is frankincense, the dried gum resin of Boswellia trees, chiefly Boswellia sacra of Oman, Yemen and Somalia, still widely traded under its old synonym Boswellia carterii. Harvesters score the bark, and the milky sap bleeds out and hardens in the sun into amber tears that are then steam-distilled or solvent-extracted.
How it smells
Bright, dry and resinous, opening with cool lemon-pine and green terpenes over a balsamic warmth. Beneath runs peppery incense, a faint waxy sweetness and a smoky, slightly camphoraceous lift. As it dries it turns soft, ambery and meditative, recalling old stone churches and warm dust.
In perfumery
A versatile heart-to-base material prized in incense and oriental compositions, lending lift, cool radiance and a spiritual signature. It pairs with myrrh, rose, citrus and labdanum, and defines the smoky cathedral-incense and dry woody-incense styles built around it.
Good to know
Frankincense was once valued like gold and traded along Arabian caravan routes, and it appears in the Nativity story. Overtapping, overgrazing and pest damage now stress wild Boswellia stands, with Boswellia sacra listed as Near Threatened, raising real sustainability concerns for the trade.
White Musk
The laundered lab musk in almost everything
What it is
White musk is not a natural material but a marketing name for clean synthetic musks, chiefly the polycyclic Galaxolide and the macrocyclics Habanolide and ethylene brassylate. These lab molecules replaced endangered deer musk and now anchor the base of nearly every mass-market and designer fragrance made.
How it smells
Soft, airy and weightless, reading as fresh cotton, warm clean skin and powdery soap. There is a faint sweetness, sometimes a fruity shimmer from Galaxolide, but none of the animalic, fecal or sweaty depth that defines real musk. It smells laundered rather than alive.
In perfumery
White musk is the great diffuser and fixative, stretching other notes and lending tenacity and a radiant glow. Cheap, stable and easy to work with, it builds the cozy second-skin drydown of countless modern scents. Some older polycyclic musks have come under environmental review, which has moved perfumers toward newer biodegradable macrocyclics.
Good to know
Many people are anosmic to specific musks such as Galaxolide, so a scent can vanish on one wearer and bloom on another. White musk is what most people now picture as musk, a clean abstraction far removed from the dark animalic glandular secretion the word originally named.
Fragrance Character
Saffron casts a warm, slightly ferrous edge against the bite of pink pepper before the heart softens it into rich, powdery florals. Lysylang and jasmine press forward alongside rose, neither one fully dominant, the trio kept from sweetness by the smoke of olibanum rising through the base. Patchouli and vanilla take over in the drydown, earthen and warm, the white musk settling it into a close, skin-level finish that lingers without projecting.
Longevity
how long it stays on skin
This gauge reads the expected wear time, how many hours the fragrance keeps speaking on skin before it fades. A marker near the low end means a few fleeting hours, while a marker pushed to the far end promises a scent still present from morning into night.
Sillage
the size of its scent trail
This reads how far the fragrance reaches beyond you and the trail it leaves behind. Low sits soft against the skin, an intimate whisper noticed only up close; high climbs through moderate and strong toward enormous, filling a room and lingering in the air after you have left it.
Experimental
For the bold and curious
Unconventional, boundary-pushing scents for someone who wants to provoke a reaction and stand apart. Suited to artistic, challenging compositions: inky tar, rubber, fermented fruit, metallic or animalic facets that defy easy liking. On this wheel a glowing coin means it rewards the adventurous nose, a dim one means it plays things safe.
Office
Polished but never overpowering
Close-quarters professional settings where a scent should be noticed only by those near you. Suited to restrained, clean compositions with modest projection: tidy citrus, soft musk, pale woods that read competent and considerate. On this wheel a glowing coin means it works in shared workspaces, a dim one means it carries too far.
Evening
After dark, turned up
Dinners, drinks, and nights out when a fragrance can deepen and project with confidence. Suited to richer, warmer compositions: ambers, resins, smoky woods, or plush florals that bloom under low light. On this wheel a glowing coin means the scent comes alive after sundown, a dim one means it stays better suited to daytime.
Romantic
Close enough to be felt
Intimate moments and date nights meant to draw someone nearer. Suited to warm, sensual compositions that hum against skin: creamy florals, vanilla, soft musk, a touch of spice or amber that invites closeness. On this wheel a glowing coin means it sets an alluring mood, a dim one means it leans more practical than seductive.
Formal
Refined for the occasion that matters
Weddings, ceremonies, galas, and dressed-up affairs that call for composure and elegance. Suited to polished, structured scents with quiet authority: smooth woods, refined florals, soft leather, nothing loud or playful. On this wheel a glowing coin means it carries the right gravitas, a dim one means it feels too casual for the room.
Casual
Easy comfort for unhurried days
Everyday wear with no agenda: errands, coffee, friends, a slow weekend. Suited to soft, approachable scents that feel clean and natural, like fresh citrus, light woods, or a gentle skin warmth. On this wheel a glowing coin means the fragrance fits these laid-back moments, a dim one means it asks for more.
Day to Night
where its mood naturally falls
This slider reads the hour the fragrance was made for. A marker to the left leans luminous and bright, easy in daylight and open air; slide it right and the character turns deeper and warmer, the kind of presence that belongs to evening and candlelit rooms.
Winter
Warmth that carries through cold air
Cold air mutes and slows a fragrance, so winter rewards the dense and the warm: resins, smoke, vanilla, leather, and ambered spice that radiate heat against the chill. The bar shows how strongly this particular scent holds up and glows in cold weather.
Spring
Fresh blooms in mild, rising warmth
Mild, humid air lifts lighter compositions beautifully, so spring favors dewy florals, green stems, soft powder, and transparent citrus that feel alive rather than heavy. The bar shows how well this particular scent matches that fresh, gently warming season.
Summer
Bright and airy in real heat
Heat amplifies and projects scent hard, so summer calls for cool, crisp, breathable things: sharp citrus, salty marine air, aromatic herbs, and watery freshness that refresh instead of cloy. The bar shows how comfortably this particular scent wears in real warmth.
Fall
Spiced warmth for cooling days
As temperatures drop, richer materials read clearly without smothering, so autumn suits dry woods, warm spice, tobacco, amber, and golden fruit that feel cozy and contemplative. The bar shows how naturally this particular scent settles into crisp, cooling days.
Best Worn
Winter evenings and formal occasions where a fragrance is meant to be noticed, worn by someone who enters a room already composed.
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The Vibe
The Nose
Jordi Fernández
Perfumer
Self-taught Spanish perfumer based in Barcelona who began at Eurofragance and is now a senior perfumer at Givaudan, known for his oud work. He composed Maison Crivelli Oud Maracujá, D'Orsay Tonka Hysteria and Carner Barcelona Helix, and co-signed Montblanc Explorer with Antoine Maisondieu and Olivier Pescheux.
More by this noseOud MaracujaBlue Talisman ExtraitBrompton Immortals
The Maison
Ex Nihilo
Parisian modernity with a lab streak, sized to try before the flacon.
Ex Nihilo runs cool and self assured, chic minerality and clean florals set against dry woods and modern amber. Nothing shouts. Fleur Narcotique was the breakout that put the house on the map, and the line has kept that same quiet, bespoke feeling since.
- Origin
- Paris, France
- Founded
- 2013
- Known for
- Fleur Narcotique, cool modern woods
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