

Lost Tribe
Neon Palms
Neon Palms opens in a crush of tart raspberry, ripe pineapple, and sun-lit bergamot before a floral heart of gardenia, ylang-ylang, and rose otto pulls the composition inward, settling finally into Papua oud, labdanum, and oakmoss, a resinous, moss-dark foundation that gives the whole thing unexpected weight.
The Nose
Composed by Mathew Schmuelian for Lost Tribe, also behind Prince of Persia, MARS, and Pan's Labyrinth (with Rajesh Balkrishnan).


Fruity
Ripe orchard flush of juice
The succulent sweetness of peach, pear, apple, or berry, soft and dewy with a nectar-like ripeness distinct from sharp citrus. It brings a playful, mouthwatering roundness that feels youthful, juicy, and lighthearted.


Floral
Petals in soft full bloom
The rounded, dewy scent of flowers in bloom, soft and slightly sweet with a powdery, nectar-like glow. It reads romantic and gentle, conjuring a garden in late spring and a feeling of lightness against the skin.


Sweet
Edible warmth on the skin
A rounded, sugary character that suggests caramel, honey, or spun candy without any single one dominating. It reads as comforting and indulgent, the gourmand pull that makes a fragrance feel soft, inviting, and almost good enough to taste.


Natural Raspberry
A raspberry impression hand-built from naturals
What it is
Because there is no usable raspberry essential oil, a natural-perfume house reconstructs the note as an accord assembled entirely from natural materials. The work leans on naturally-derived traces of raspberry ketone, berry-leaning naturals, and a touch of davana with its plummy, fruity facets, layered with rosy and green tones. The result is an artful impression of raspberry, not an extract of the fruit. This is the rare, connoisseur route: it costs more, takes real blending skill, and yields far less consistency than a lab can promise.
How it smells
Soft, rounded, and jammy rather than sharp, with a ripe-fruit sweetness that sits close to the skin. The natural materials carry their own quiet complexity, so the berry reads warmer and a little wild, threaded with floral and green nuances. Compared with its lab-built cousin it is less linear and less candied, evolving and breathing as it wears.
In perfumery
It belongs to the small world of all-natural and artisanal composition, prized by makers who refuse synthetics on principle. It pairs beautifully with rose, violet leaf, and woods, lending a gourmand-leaning fruitiness without the plastic edge. Because the materials are scarce and pricey, it appears mostly in limited, hand-poured work rather than mass production.
Good to know
The trade-off is honesty: a natural reconstruction can never be as loud, as stable, or as cheap as the synthetic version, and batch-to-batch it will drift with the harvest. What you gain is depth, softness, and the satisfaction of a fruit conjured entirely from plants. It is an impression for connoisseurs who value craft over uniformity.


Natural Pineapple
A tropical accord hand-built from pure naturals
What it is
There is no true pineapple essential oil — the fruit yields nothing usable by steam distillation or expression. The natural version is therefore an artful impression, an accord assembled entirely from naturally derived materials: fruity-floral fractions, sweet balsamic resinoids, and the small family of naturally occurring esters that read as ripe tropical fruit. It is a reconstruction, never an extract of the fruit itself.
How it smells
Juicy, golden, and sun-warmed, with the candied sweetness of ripe pineapple flesh and a faint green-tart edge. Built from naturals it tends to be rounder, softer, and more three-dimensional than its lab-built cousin, blooming and fading rather than sitting flat. Expect a little more texture and a little less of the sharp, hard-candy snap.
In perfumery
Used to lift an opening with radiant tropical brightness or to sweeten and round a fruity-floral heart. The all-natural build is prized in artisanal and botanical perfumery, where the entire formula must stay natural, and it pairs beautifully with citrus, jasmine, and warm resins. Because every component is a natural material, it rewards careful balancing — too much and it turns jammy.
Good to know
This is the rare, connoisseur route: naturals are costly, vary batch to batch, and demand real skill to coax into a convincing pineapple. The payoff is a warmer, more living quality that aficionados seek out. Outside dedicated natural houses you will almost never encounter it, simply because the synthetic accord is so much easier and cheaper.


Bergamot
Sparkling citrus light with a bittersweet edge
What it is
Bergamot is a small citrus fruit, Citrus bergamia, grown almost entirely along the Calabrian coast of southern Italy. The aromatic oil sits in glands in the rind of the unripe green-yellow fruit and is cold-pressed mechanically from the peel rather than distilled, preserving its fresh brightness.
How it smells
Bright, zesty and green, a sweet citrus sparkle softened by a floral, almost tea-like smoothness. Underneath runs a faintly bitter, balsamic warmth that sets it apart from lemon or orange. It flashes lively on opening, then fades quickly into a soft, slightly spicy hum.
In perfumery
The classic top note, bergamot adds freshness and lift while blending sharp citrus into the heart. It defines eau de cologne and the fougère family, harmonizing with lavender, neroli and oakmoss. It opens countless modern fresh-floral compositions, and its oil gives Earl Grey tea its scent.
Good to know
Natural bergamot oil contains bergapten, a furocoumarin that makes skin highly sensitive to sunlight and can cause burns. Modern perfumery uses bergapten-free (FCF) oil to meet IFRA safety limits, so most contemporary bergamot in fragrance is purified rather than raw cold-pressed oil.


Citron
The ancient knobbly citrus of dry, green light
What it is
Citron is Citrus medica, one of the oldest cultivated citrus species and a genetic ancestor of the lemon. The large, oblong fruit is mostly thick, knobbly, leathery rind with little juice; its essential oil, called cedrat, is cold-pressed from that fragrant peel.
How it smells
Tangy and sparkling like lemon but rounder and more velvety, with light floral nuances and a clean, dry bitterness. It opens crisp and zesty, then reveals a subtle, refined citrus edge that feels less acidic and more polished than common lemon.
In perfumery
A bright top note bringing dynamic, uplifting freshness and a dry citrus facet to colognes and modern citrus accords. It pairs naturally with neroli, petitgrain and herbs, and gives its name, under the French term cedrat, to a whole genre of cedrat scents.
Good to know
The fingered citron variety, Buddha's hand, splits into tendril-like segments and is used in religious offerings across Asia. A separate citron cultivar, the etrog, is one of the four sacred plants of the Jewish autumn festival of Sukkot.


Orange
Sun in the rind, bright and bittersweet
What it is
Orange comes from Citrus sinensis, the sweet orange tree cultivated across the Mediterranean, Brazil and Florida. The aroma material is cold-pressed from the peel, where tiny glands hold the essential oil. Bitter orange and its blossom and leaves yield separate materials such as neroli and petitgrain.
How it smells
Bright, juicy and immediately recognizable: sweet pulp over a zesty, slightly bitter rind. It opens sparkling and effervescent with a sunlit tang, then softens into a rounder, candied sweetness. Compared with lemon it is warmer and less sharp, more rounded and sugary on the skin.
In perfumery
Almost always a top note, prized for a radiant, cheerful burst that fades within an hour. It pairs with neroli, bergamot, clove and warm spices, and anchors classic colognes and gourmand openings. It sparkles in Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine and countless traditional eaux de cologne.
Good to know
Citrus oils are highly volatile and oxidize quickly, which is why orange-heavy fragrances feel brilliant but brief. Cold-pressed peel oils also contain furocoumarins that can cause photosensitivity, so perfumers often use bergapten-reduced or distilled grades to keep formulas safe in sunlight.


Red Rose Otto
Thousands of petals distilled to a velvet drop
What it is
The steam-distilled essential oil of Rosa damascena, the deep-pink damask rose grown chiefly in Bulgaria's Rose Valley and around Isparta, Turkey. Petals picked at dawn are distilled within hours; roughly three to four thousand kilograms of petals yield a single kilogram of oil.
How it smells
Deep, honeyed and true to a living rose, warmer and rounder than solvent-extracted rose absolute. It opens fresh and dewy with green, lemony and spicy facets, then deepens into rich petal sweetness carrying a faintly waxy, clove-like and tea-like undertone as it dries.
In perfumery
A heart-note cornerstone lending body, naturalness and romance to florals, chypres and orientals. It pairs with oud, patchouli, sandalwood and geranium. It anchors classic French rose chypres as well as countless Middle Eastern rose-and-oud attars and compositions.
Good to know
Below roughly 22 Celsius rose otto partly solidifies, throwing pale crystalline flakes of stearoptene, a near-odourless waxy fraction from the petals; gentle warming returns it to liquid. By weight, top-grade rose otto has long ranked among the costliest raw materials in perfumery.


Lavender
Cool herbal blue from a sunlit hillside
What it is
Lavender is a woody Mediterranean shrub in the mint family, mainly Lavandula angustifolia, grown across Provence and Bulgaria. The flowering tops are cut at peak bloom and steam-distilled, the purple spikes yielding a pale essential oil; solvent extraction of the flowers gives a darker, richer absolute.
How it smells
Clean, herbal and aromatic, with a cool camphor lift over soft floral sweetness. The opening is sharp, green, almost minty; the dry-down warms into hay, faint vanilla and a powdery, slightly fruity calm. True angustifolia smells rounder and sweeter than the harsher lavandin hybrid.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart note and the backbone of the fougere family, pairing with oakmoss, coumarin and tonka in barbershop accords. It also softens citrus colognes and bright florals. It anchors the great pioneering aromatic fougeres and countless aromatic masculine scents.
Good to know
Provence lavender fields draw millions of visitors, yet much commercial oil is actually lavandin, a sterile hybrid yielding far more per hectare. A spreading bacterial disease, phytoplasma decline spread by sap-sucking planthoppers, has pushed true angustifolia plantings higher into cooler mountain altitudes.


Clary Sage
Herbal ambery haze with a wine-like lift
What it is
An essential oil steam-distilled from the flowering tops and leaves of Salvia sclarea, a tall biennial herb in the mint family native to the northern Mediterranean and now grown across Europe, Russia and the United States. A more tenacious concrete and absolute are also produced.
How it smells
Herbaceous and aromatic with a soft, sweet, ambery-balsamic warmth and a distinctive winey, tea-like nuance. It opens green, slightly nutty and hay-like over a clean musky undertone, then dries to a rounded warmth that feels both fresh and faintly tobacco-sweet.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart note adding aromatic freshness, wine-like roundness and a natural fixative warmth. A backbone of fougeres and lavender colognes, it pairs with lavender, bergamot, oakmoss and labdanum, lending its herbal glow to many barbershop and chypre classics.
Good to know
Clary sage yields sclareol, the natural starting material for making Ambrox, the prized synthetic ambergris molecule, so this humble herb quietly underpins much of modern amber perfumery. The name clary derives from clear-eye, reflecting its historic folk use to soothe eye irritation.


Gardenia
Creamy white bloom with a mushroom heart
What it is
Gardenia is a glossy-leaved evergreen shrub of the coffee family, native to China and Japan, prized for its waxy white flowers. The living bloom yields almost no oil to extraction, so perfumers recreate it through headspace analysis and reconstruction from jasmine, tuberose and aroma-chemicals.
How it smells
Lush, creamy and white-floral, layering jasmine sweetness over tuberose richness. A green, almost buttery freshness opens it, while a curious mushroom-and-coconut facet sits at its core, lending a fleshy, slightly savory depth that keeps the sweetness grounded and lifelike.
In perfumery
A heart note bringing opulent, velvety body to white-floral and tropical compositions. It pairs with tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and coconut, and stars in soliflores built entirely around the bloom.
Good to know
A true gardenia absolute barely exists commercially: the flower yields too little material to extract economically, so nearly every gardenia note is a clever reconstruction. The shrub was named for Scottish-born naturalist Alexander Garden in the eighteenth century.


Neroli
Bittersweet orange blossom distilled into white light
What it is
Neroli is the steam-distilled essential oil of the fresh white flowers of the bitter orange tree, Citrus aurantium subspecies amara, also called bigarade or Seville orange. Blossoms are hand-picked at dawn and distilled the same day. Tunisia, Morocco and Egypt are the major sources.
How it smells
Bright, clean and floral with a green, faintly bitter edge and a honeyed metallic shimmer often likened to freshly ironed linen. It opens crisp and citrus-cool, then settles into soft, waxy petal warmth, far fresher and lighter than the heady orange blossom absolute from the same tree.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart note prized for lift and radiance in colognes and florals. It pairs with bergamot, petitgrain, jasmine and musk, and anchors the classic eau de cologne structure. It shines in bright neroli-forward colognes and sun-drenched citrus-floral compositions.
Good to know
The name traces to Anne Marie Orsini, seventeenth-century princess of Nerola near Rome, who scented her gloves and bathwater with the oil and made it fashionable across Europe. Distilling one kilo of neroli takes roughly a tonne of hand-picked blossoms, keeping it among perfumery's costlier naturals.


Rose
The queen of flowers, fresh and endlessly deep
What it is
Perfumery rose comes mainly from two species: Rosa damascena, grown in Bulgaria's Valley of Roses and in Turkey, and Rosa centifolia from Grasse. Petals are picked at dawn, then either steam-distilled into rose otto or solvent-extracted into a deeper, redder absolute via a waxy concrete.
How it smells
Rich, fresh and unmistakably floral, with honeyed sweetness and a green, dewy lift. Beneath sit spicy, fruity and faintly tea-like facets, and in the absolute a darker, jammy depth. Rose otto opens crisp and bright; the absolute reads warmer, smokier and more sensual.
In perfumery
A heart note of extraordinary range, rose adds body, freshness and natural floral richness, blending with almost anything. It anchors the chypre and floral families and pairs with oud, patchouli and violet. It is the showpiece of countless classic floral and chypre compositions.
Good to know
It takes roughly three to four thousand kilograms of hand-picked petals to distill a single kilogram of rose otto, which helps explain why the oil can rival precious metals in price. Picking happens at dawn, before the sun burns off the most fragrant compounds.


Ylang-ylang
Sun-warmed tropical bloom, banana-cream and jasmine
What it is
The drooping yellow star-shaped flower of Cananga odorata, a tropical tree native to Southeast Asia and now grown mainly in the Comoros, Madagascar and Mayotte. Hand-picked blossoms are steam-distilled for fifteen to twenty hours, the run siphoned off in stages into grades from Extra to Third.
How it smells
Creamy, heady and warm: jasmine-like florals over a soft banana-custard sweetness, threaded with rubber, clove and narcissus. The Extra fraction is bright, fruity and spicy on top; later grades turn deeper, fattier and more medicinal, drying down to a rounded, slightly waxy floral.
In perfumery
A heart-note workhorse adding tropical richness and lift to floral and oriental compositions, bridging jasmine, rose and tuberose while softening citrus tops. It forms part of the floral bouquet of the great aldehydic classics, drives many a legendary floral, and underpins countless solar tiare blends.
Good to know
The name traces to the Tagalog ilang-ilang, commonly glossed as flower of flowers, reaching European perfumery via Spanish. In Indonesia the blossoms are traditionally scattered over the beds of newlyweds. A single tree fruits for decades, with the most fragrant flowers picked at dawn while still cool.


Oakmoss
The damp green soul of the forest floor
What it is
Oakmoss is not a true moss but a lichen, Evernia prunastri, growing on oak and other deciduous bark across temperate Europe, notably the Balkans, France and Morocco. The harvested thalli are solvent-extracted into a dark, viscous concrete and absolute, the raw materials used in perfumery.
How it smells
Deeply earthy and forest-green, with damp bark, wet stone and a leathery, inky undertone. A dry, faintly bitter mossiness carries marine and tar-like facets. The effect is shadowy rather than fresh, evoking the cool floor beneath old trees after rain has soaked the ground.
In perfumery
A base note and the backbone of the chypre family, lending structure, depth and a vintage signature. It pairs classically with bergamot, labdanum and patchouli. It defines the great peach-spiced chypres and the green core of classic galbanum florals, plus countless mossy fougères and masculines.
Good to know
Oakmoss extracts contain atranol and chloroatranol, potent skin allergens the EU effectively banned in 2017. IFRA now requires reduced-allergen, low-atranol versions, capping these molecules to trace levels, which has quietly reshaped how the classic chypre smells in reformulated modern perfumes.


Papua Oud
Wild green oud from the last frontier
What it is
Oud distilled from wild Gyrinops and Aquilaria filaria trees in the rainforests of Papua and West New Guinea, a region only tapped for agarwood since the late 1990s. Its dense, lignin-heavy heartwood demands long water soaks and high-temperature steam distillation to surrender its oil.
How it smells
Raw, green and untamed, among the most feral of regional ouds. A wet, after-rain mud and forest-floor opening gives way to fermented herbal funk, mushroom, dark coffee and cacao, with vaporous, almost metallic edges. Less sweet than Cambodian, less fecal than Hindi, but vivid and primal.
In perfumery
A connoisseur material distilled in tiny batches by artisanal oud houses, rather than used in commercial scent. Storied single-origin distillations from densely resinated Gyrinops are near-mythic among oud-heads for their green, tart, wild character.
Good to know
Papua agarwood is wild-harvested and under heavy pressure, with oil yields often a fraction of a percent, making genuine distillate scarce and costly. Aquilaria and Gyrinops are CITES-listed. Anything labeled Papua oud in an affordable mass fragrance is a synthetic accord, never the real oil.


Atlas Cedar
Dry mountain wood, sweet balsam and pencil shavings
What it is
A true conifer wood from Cedrus atlantica, native to the Atlas and Rif Mountains of Morocco and Algeria at high altitude. The essential oil is steam-distilled from chipped wood, sawdust and shavings, much of it upcycled from the lumber trade rather than from freshly felled trees.
How it smells
Warm, dry and woody with a sweet balsamic core, often likened to sharpened pencils and freshly cut timber. A camphoraceous, faintly smoky-resinous lift sits over an earthy base. Drier and more austere than soft, creamy Virginian cedar, it dries down clean and tenacious.
In perfumery
A workhorse base note giving structure, dryness and lasting woody warmth, also valued as a fixative. It pairs with rose, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss and labdanum, underpinning chypre and woody-oriental builds. It contributes to many classic masculine and ambery wood compositions.
Good to know
The oil is rich in himachalene sesquiterpenes, with beta-himachalene the dominant component at roughly a third of the oil. Cedrus atlantica was listed Endangered by the IUCN in 2013, so distilling oil from sawmill offcuts has become the more responsible feedstock.


Benzoin
Warm vanilla balsam wept from a tapped tree
What it is
Benzoin is a balsamic resin from Styrax trees of Southeast Asia. Siam benzoin comes from Styrax tonkinensis (Laos, Vietnam), Sumatra benzoin from Styrax benzoin (Indonesia). Incisions in the bark make the tree exude a gum that hardens over months into reddish tears, processed into resinoid and absolute.
How it smells
Sweet, warm and balsamic with a pronounced vanilla character and powdery, ambery, faintly cinnamic facets. Siam is rounder and more vanillic; Sumatra is smokier with a cinnamon-styrax edge. It opens soft and creamy, then dries into a cozy, resinous, almost caramelized sweetness.
In perfumery
A warm base note and gentle fixative lending sweetness, body and a vanillic glow to amber accords. It blends with labdanum, vanilla, tonka and incense, smoothing orientals and gourmands. Benzoin is a defining warmth in golden-age oriental classics and countless amber compositions.
Good to know
Benzoin gave its name to benzoic acid and, through it, to the chemical term benzene. The word itself traces to the Arabic luban jawi, "frankincense of Java." The resin never flows on its own; every tear is the tree healing an incision deliberately cut into its bark.


Frankincense
Sacred smoke distilled from desert tree tears
What it is
Frankincense, or olibanum, is the dried gum resin of Boswellia trees, with Boswellia sacra of Oman, Yemen and Somalia among the most prized. The bark is scored and weeps a milky sap that hardens over weeks into golden tears, later steam-distilled or solvent-extracted for perfumery.
How it smells
Fresh, resinous and luminous, with a clean coniferous-citrus brightness from alpha-pinene and limonene over a dry, balsamic woody base. It carries a cool, peppery, almost lemony lift, then settles into the warm, dusty incense smoke familiar from churches and temples.
In perfumery
Used in heart and base, it adds a meditative, smoky resinous spine and a soaring transparency. It pairs with myrrh, rose, oud and labdanum, and lifts heavy oriental accords. It centers many incense-built compositions and defines the cathedral-incense theme.
Good to know
Frankincense has been traded for over five thousand years and once moved along Arabian incense routes at prices rivaling gold. Wild Boswellia populations are now declining from over-tapping, drought and grazing, raising real concern over the long-term sustainability of the harvest.


Labdanum
Sticky amber resin scraped from sun-baked rockrose
What it is
Labdanum is a dark, sticky resin from the rockrose shrub Cistus ladanifer, native to the western Mediterranean. The plant exudes a fragrant gum on its leaves and twigs in summer heat; branches are boiled or scraped to recover the crude resin, which is then solvent-extracted into absolute and resinoid.
How it smells
Deep, warm and balsamic with leathery, animalic and faintly sweet facets that read as soft amber. Dried-fruit, honey, smoke and pine undertones run through it. It opens resinous and almost ambergris-like, then dries into a brown tobacco-and-leather warmth that lingers for hours.
In perfumery
A foundational base note and the natural backbone of most amber accords, usually built with vanilla and benzoin. A strong fixative, it deepens chypres, orientals and leathers and pairs with rose, oakmoss and incense. It underpins many golden-age oriental classics and countless amber compositions.
Good to know
In antiquity labdanum was combed from the matted beards and thighs of goats and sheep that had browsed through cistus thickets, then raked off with a toothed tool called a ladanisterion. It is one of the oldest aromatic materials, predating distillation by millennia.


Patchouli
Damp earth and dark wood after rain
What it is
Patchouli comes from Pogostemon cablin, a leafy bush in the mint family native to tropical Asia and grown mainly in Indonesia, India and Sri Lanka. The harvested leaves are dried and lightly cured or fermented, then steam-distilled or hydrodistilled into a thick, dark essential oil.
How it smells
Deeply earthy and woody, like damp forest floor, wet soil and old cellars, threaded with a winey, slightly sweet darkness. Fresh oil can read sharp, almost camphorous and green; with age it rounds into chocolate, leather and dried-fruit warmth that clings for hours.
In perfumery
A base note and powerful fixative, patchouli anchors a composition and lengthens its wear. It forms the backbone of chypres and orientals, pairing with rose, vetiver, labdanum and vanilla. It defines many gourmand-oriental blends and carries the woody-balsamic heart of plush chypre accords.
Good to know
In the 19th century, real Kashmiri shawls were packed with dried patchouli leaves to repel moths in transit, so Europeans learned to recognise genuine imports by smell. Unlike most essential oils, patchouli improves with age, deepening and mellowing over years much like wine.
Fragrance Character
The first minutes are vivid and acidic, the citrus and tropical fruit pushing outward with real presence. As the top burns off, lavender and clary sage temper the florals, lending an herbal smokiness that bridges the brightness above and the oud below. On skin it dries to a close, resinous warmth, benzoin and patchouli anchoring the Papua oud while bergamot resurfaces faintly in the base, keeping the finish from turning fully dark.
Best Worn
Reserved for autumn and winter evenings out, its vivid fruit cooling into herbal smoke as the night settles in, just as at home on a relaxed evening close to home.
Why the Neon Palms Decant
The combination of tropical fruit, full florals, and genuine Papua oud creates a rich, potentially polarising arc that deserves a trial on your skin before committing to a full bottle.
Official Notes
Raspberry · Pineapple · Bergamot · Citron · Orange · Red Rose Otto · Lavender · Clary Sage · Gardenia · Neroli · Rose · Ylang-ylang · Oakmoss · Papua Oud · Atlas Cedar · Benzoin · Frankincense · Labdanum · Patchouli
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