Toskovat
Anarchist A♭
The Story
Anarchist A♭ is built on a single provocation, that anything can be sold to a willing buyer: love, faith, forgiveness, distraction. Toskovat stages a collision between icy, flashing luxury and the stained underside of wealth, then marches the whole scene into a confession booth where the sacred and the synthetic breathe the same air. It remains one of the house's most confrontational, idea-driven releases.
Woody
Dry grain of cut timber
The smell of cedar shavings, sandalwood, and dry vetiver roots, a sanded, resinous warmth with a faint pencil-box rasp. It feels grounded and composed, the quiet backbone that makes a scent read as serious and lasting.
Aromatic
Crushed herbs in cool air
The green, camphorous coolness of lavender, rosemary, sage, and thyme, like herbs bruised between the fingers. It feels clean, invigorating, and a touch austere, the crisp backbone of a classic barbershop freshness.
Whiskey
warm spirit and oak smoke
A boozy, amber warmth that smells of aged grain steeped in charred oak, with a faint vanilla sweetness and a peaty, smoky edge. It feels intoxicating and grown-up, the scent of a slow evening and loosened collars.
Fresh
Clean air after cool water
A crisp, transparent brightness that suggests cool water, washed skin, and open air, often laced with a zesty or aquatic lift. It feels clean and weightless, instantly cooling and uncomplicated, like stepping outside after a rain.
Warm Spicy
Glowing embers of the spice drawer
The rounded heat of cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg, dry and slightly resinous, like a baking pantry rather than a sharp kitchen. It creates a flushed, enveloping warmth that feels intimate and cool-weather, hugging the skin from within.
Credit Cards
Cold plastic and consumerism rendered as scent
What it is
A conceptual, fully synthetic note with no natural source, built by perfumers to evoke plastic rather than any plant or animal. It belongs to a wave of narrative niche notes that name an object or feeling, here the cold polymer of a payment card, assembled from aroma-chemicals chosen for a synthetic, mineral effect.
How it smells
Cool, hard and faintly chemical, the smell of fresh plastic and PVC newly unwrapped. It carries a sleek, slightly metallic and ozonic edge with little sweetness or warmth, reading clean yet artificial. The impression is tactile and modern, more surface and machine than anything from nature.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart accent in avant-garde, conceptual compositions, used to inject a deliberately synthetic, urban or dystopian texture against organic notes. It has been listed at the top of experimental fragrances alongside whiskey and snow, where the credit-card facet opens a smoky, abstract structure resisting conventional prettiness.
Good to know
The name is storytelling, not chemistry. It signals a movement in independent perfumery toward offbeat and unsettling notes such as anxiety, ink, candle wax or asphalt, designed to provoke and narrate rather than to please, treating fragrance as conceptual art over comfort.
Whiskey
Aged spirit poured into a fragrance accord
What it is
Whiskey cannot be distilled into a single natural perfume material, so it exists as a reconstructed accord. Perfumers build it from oak lactones, smoky phenols, vanillin, dried-fruit esters and grain facets, layering raw materials to mimic the aroma a spirit gains while aging in charred wooden casks.
How it smells
Warm and woody, with toasted oak, sweet hay, honey and dried fruit over a soft boozy haze. Peated versions add iodine, wet stone and medicinal smoke, while bourbon-styled ones lean toward vanilla, coconut and caramel. It opens spirituous and dries to mellow cask wood.
In perfumery
A heart accord that adds warmth, intoxication and a lived-in character. It pairs with tobacco, leather, oak, tonka and dried fruits in boozy ambers and woody orientals. It is a recurring signature in cask-themed compositions that pair the spirit with cedar or honeyed woods.
Good to know
The oaky-vanilla character of whiskey, and of its perfume accord, comes from the cask: charring American or French oak releases vanillin and toasted lactones into the spirit. Perfumers borrow those same molecules, so a fine whiskey and a whiskey fragrance can share real chemistry.
Snow
Cold clean air, the scent of absence
What it is
A conceptual accord with no natural source, since frozen water is nearly odorless. Perfumers build it synthetically from cold metallic aldehydes, airy molecules like dihydromyrcenol, a touch of ozonic Calone and transparent white musks, assembling the suggestion of cold, clean, weightless air.
How it smells
Sharp, mineral and deliberately near-empty: crisp cold air, a faint metallic prickle, damp stone and a watery transparency. It registers more as a sensation of chill and absence than a defined aroma, sometimes brushed with a thread of sweetness from the musk underneath.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart effect that opens a fragrance with airy coldness and space. It pairs with juniper, mint, iris, pine and aquatic notes in winter and minimalist compositions, and shapes the icy register of glacial niche releases and frosted, snow-themed seasonal scents.
Good to know
Snow accords work largely by exclusion, leaving out warmth, sweetness and organic matter as much as adding anything. The cold aldehydes that read as fresh snow also form when fats oxidize, which is why frozen laundry and snowy air can smell oddly alike.
Money
Cotton, ink and the cold tang of coins
What it is
A fantasy accord with no natural source; the smell of currency is reconstructed in the laboratory. Perfumers blend ink, paper and metallic accords, layering cotton-cellulose, soapy and slightly soiled facets to mimic the cotton-linen banknotes and handled coins that pass through countless palms and pockets.
How it smells
A worn handful of cash: cotton paper, oily printing ink and soap, threaded with the metallic tang of coins and the warm leather of a wallet. It opens dry and papery, turns sharp and inky like over-steeped black tea, then ends faintly grubby and human.
In perfumery
A conceptual heart accent used for storytelling and provocation rather than beauty, lending gritty, urban, slightly dirty realism. It pairs with leather, iris, vetiver and incense. Symrise perfumer Marc vom Ende reconstructed the literal scent of US banknotes for artist Mike Bouchet's invisible money sculpture.
Good to know
Vom Ende analysed new and used US bills sealed with charcoal, finding the smell rests on cotton, soap and ink across more than a hundred volatile compounds, overlaid with leather, metal and sweat from handling. Banknotes are woven from cotton and linen, so money smells more like cloth than paper.
Candle Wax
Warm beeswax tapers and a quiet flame
What it is
A note built largely on beeswax, secreted by worker honeybees to form honeycomb and harvested as a byproduct of beekeeping. The wax is melted, filtered and solvent-extracted into beeswax absolute, a golden, soft-textured material; the broader accord may add smoky and waxy facets to suggest a burning taper.
How it smells
Honeyed, soft and waxy, with a warm, slightly powdery sweetness and hints of pollen. Beneath the honey sit hay, cured tobacco and a faint animalic intimacy, plus anise-like and leathery nuances. The candle-wax reading adds a clean, faintly smoky paraffin coolness up top.
In perfumery
A heart-to-base note prized as a natural fixative, slowing volatile florals while contributing golden, ambery warmth. It underpins lavender, rose and oakmoss and rounds gourmands. L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube melts beeswax beneath orange blossom and tobacco, showcasing its honeyed glow against jasmine and benzoin.
Good to know
Beeswax absolute is one of the few naturally animalic perfume materials taken without harming the source animal. Bees consume roughly six to eight pounds of honey to produce a single pound of wax, and yields of finished absolute are small, which keeps the material relatively scarce and costly.
Ink
Wet writing and cold metal on paper
What it is
Ink is an abstract note with no plant or animal source; nothing is extracted from a bottle of ink. Perfumers build it as an accord, layering synthetic aroma-chemicals with a few naturals to suggest the smell of India ink, iron-gall writing fluid and damp printed paper.
How it smells
The impression is cool, dark and mineral, with a slightly metallic, sooty edge over damp paper. Facets include camphorous smoke, a dry earthiness close to patchouli, and a green-bitter prickle. The overall effect reads cerebral and shadowy rather than sweet or floral.
In perfumery
Ink usually sits as a top-to-heart accent, giving a composition a metallic, intellectual hook and grounding it against woods, leather and earthy patchouli. Builders reach for violet-leaf absolute, guaiacol, birch tar, isobutyl quinoline and paper-like musks. Naomi Goodsir Bois d'Ascese and Jacomo Silences explore inky territory.
Good to know
What people read as a metallic smell is not metal at all. Iron is effectively odourless; the scent comes from 1-octen-3-one, a ketone formed when iron reacts with lipids in skin oil, the same molecule behind the tang of blood and old fountain-pen ink on fingers.
Plastic Bag
Cool synthetic film, faintly sweet and airless
What it is
Not a natural material but a scent-image of polyethylene film, the stuff of shopping and bin bags, reconstructed by perfumers from synthetic aroma-chemicals. There is no extract; the effect is assembled from petrochemical-smelling molecules that mimic the cool, waxy, faintly sweet odour of fresh plastic sheeting.
How it smells
Cool, smooth and oddly clean: a thin waxy-petrol sweetness with a static, airless quality, like opening a new packet of bags. Faint warm vinyl, rubber and crayon hover beneath. Synthetic and inedible, yet soft rather than sharp or acrid, with a curiously soothing dullness.
In perfumery
A conceptual top-note accord used to evoke newness, urbanity or unease: a new car interior, a fresh appliance, packaged goods. It pairs with rubber, leather, aldehydes and metallic notes, and features in avant-garde compositions exploring artificial, anti-natural and hyperreal urban themes.
Good to know
The faint sweetness of new plastic comes partly from residual manufacturing additives and plasticisers rather than the polymer itself. Such deliberately synthetic notes are a hallmark of post-2000 niche perfumery, which treats the everyday and artificial as fit subjects for fragrance.
Priest's Clothes
Cold incense smoke clinging to woven cloth
What it is
An abstract, conceptual note rather than a single extracted material. Perfumers build it from incense resins, ash, cool woods and faintly synthetic fabric facets to evoke vestments steeped in years of frankincense, candle smoke and the dry mustiness of heavy ceremonial textile.
How it smells
Cold, smoky and austere: spent church incense and ash over dry cedar, with a waxy candle facet and a curious polyester-like fabric edge, as if heavy ceremonial cloth had absorbed decades of olibanum. Less sweet than burning incense, more like the cooling smoke after it dies.
In perfumery
A base-note atmosphere used in ecclesiastical, gothic and avant-garde work to summon ritual and solemnity. It sits alongside olibanum, holy water, ash and precious woods, often paired with stark, profane notes like plastic and sacred olibanum to build sacred-profane tension.
Good to know
The idea draws on real liturgy: incense smoke offered in worship steadily permeated the woven vestments of those who led the rite, so cloth carried the temple's smell long after the censer cooled. Over centuries, the scent of garment and the scent of worship became inseparable.
Holy Water
Cold stone, incense haze, the hush of a nave
What it is
Holy Water is a fantasy accord, not a harvested material. Consecrated water itself is odorless, so perfumers evoke its setting: the air inside an old church. The note is assembled from incense resins, mineral and aquatic facets, beeswax and cool stone-like aroma molecules.
How it smells
Mineral, cold and faintly damp, like the air inside a stone basilica. Frankincense smoke threads through it, dry and slightly citrus-piney, over a wet-rock chill. Beeswax and candle warmth soften the edges while the overall impression stays austere, clean and sacred rather than sweet.
In perfumery
Used in the heart of incense and so-called sacred or liturgical compositions, lending cool atmosphere and a sense of space. It pairs with frankincense, sandalwood, rose and myrrh. Demeter's Holy Water and AbdesSalaam Attar's Acqua Santa, built on olibanum, sandalwood, rose and orange blossom, exemplify it.
Good to know
The accord belongs to a small genre of place-scents that bottle an environment rather than an ingredient, alongside notes like rain, dust or old library. Its power rests on memory and ritual: the smell triggers churchgoing associations more than any single identifiable raw material.
Precious Woods
A constellation of noble woods, dry and resonant
What it is
Not a single material but a perfumer's accord blending the most valued woods: agarwood (oud), sandalwood, rosewood, often cedar and guaiac. Each is won differently, by steam distillation of heartwood, resin extraction, or aroma chemicals that rebuild scarce, CITES-protected naturals at usable cost.
How it smells
A layered woodiness spanning oud's smoky resinous leather, sandalwood's creamy milky warmth and rosewood's soft rosy facet. The accord reads dry rather than sweet, deep and three-dimensional, with smoke, balsam and a polished, almost ink-like darkness running underneath.
In perfumery
A base and heart structure giving fragrances depth, naturalness and long persistence. It frames spice, amber, leather and incense, and forms the backbone of woody orientals. A composition weaving oud and sandalwood with rosewood, cardamom and vetiver exemplifies the accord.
Good to know
Many components are rare and regulated: agarwood-bearing Aquilaria trees and Brazilian rosewood are CITES-protected, and true Mysore sandalwood is scarce. Modern precious-woods accords therefore lean heavily on plantation sandalwood, sustainable captives and synthetic woody molecules rather than wild harvest.
Olibanum Sacra Resin Green
Frankincense distilled fresh and forest-green
What it is
A green grade of frankincense from Boswellia sacra, the sacred olibanum tree of Oman, Yemen and Somalia, still sold in the trade under the older name carterii. The bark is tapped to bleed gum resin; this type comes from younger, fresher resin and lighter distillation, yielding an oil with a vivid green, terpenic character.
How it smells
Bright and lifted, opening on green, citrus-peel and peppery facets over a clean balsamic core, often likened to green lemon or unripe apple skin in the freshest distillations. Fresher than aged frankincense, it dries to a soft, woody-incense warmth without heavy smoke.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart note bringing a fresh, luminous incense quality that lifts darker accords. It pairs with citrus, pink pepper, woods and other resins, suiting modern transparent-incense compositions. Boswellia olibanum threads through artisanal niche distillations as well as classic minimalist-incense compositions.
Good to know
Boswellia sacra grows in some of Earth's harshest deserts, its swollen trunk anchoring into bare rock. Omani Royal Al-Hojari, the prized greenish translucent resin, makes up only a few percent of a harvest. Overharvesting now threatens wild frankincense populations across Arabia and the Horn of Africa.
Fragrance Character
The opening projects at arm's length, metallic snow and whiskey, sharp and cold, before ink and wax pull it inward, warmer and more conspiratorial. The heart holds a candlelit gravity, money and wax in quiet tension. The drydown settles close to the skin: precious woods and olibanum resin alongside holy water and that single, unsettling thread of plastic, like a confession no one meant to make.
Longevity
how long it stays on skin
This gauge reads the expected wear time, how many hours the fragrance keeps speaking on skin before it fades. A marker near the low end means a few fleeting hours, while a marker pushed to the far end promises a scent still present from morning into night.
Sillage
the size of its scent trail
This reads how far the fragrance reaches beyond you and the trail it leaves behind. Low sits soft against the skin, an intimate whisper noticed only up close; high climbs through moderate and strong toward enormous, filling a room and lingering in the air after you have left it.
Experimental
For the bold and curious
Unconventional, boundary-pushing scents for someone who wants to provoke a reaction and stand apart. Suited to artistic, challenging compositions: inky tar, rubber, fermented fruit, metallic or animalic facets that defy easy liking. On this wheel a glowing coin means it rewards the adventurous nose, a dim one means it plays things safe.
Office
Polished but never overpowering
Close-quarters professional settings where a scent should be noticed only by those near you. Suited to restrained, clean compositions with modest projection: tidy citrus, soft musk, pale woods that read competent and considerate. On this wheel a glowing coin means it works in shared workspaces, a dim one means it carries too far.
Evening
After dark, turned up
Dinners, drinks, and nights out when a fragrance can deepen and project with confidence. Suited to richer, warmer compositions: ambers, resins, smoky woods, or plush florals that bloom under low light. On this wheel a glowing coin means the scent comes alive after sundown, a dim one means it stays better suited to daytime.
Romantic
Close enough to be felt
Intimate moments and date nights meant to draw someone nearer. Suited to warm, sensual compositions that hum against skin: creamy florals, vanilla, soft musk, a touch of spice or amber that invites closeness. On this wheel a glowing coin means it sets an alluring mood, a dim one means it leans more practical than seductive.
Formal
Refined for the occasion that matters
Weddings, ceremonies, galas, and dressed-up affairs that call for composure and elegance. Suited to polished, structured scents with quiet authority: smooth woods, refined florals, soft leather, nothing loud or playful. On this wheel a glowing coin means it carries the right gravitas, a dim one means it feels too casual for the room.
Casual
Easy comfort for unhurried days
Everyday wear with no agenda: errands, coffee, friends, a slow weekend. Suited to soft, approachable scents that feel clean and natural, like fresh citrus, light woods, or a gentle skin warmth. On this wheel a glowing coin means the fragrance fits these laid-back moments, a dim one means it asks for more.
Day to Night
where its mood naturally falls
This slider reads the hour the fragrance was made for. A marker to the left leans luminous and bright, easy in daylight and open air; slide it right and the character turns deeper and warmer, the kind of presence that belongs to evening and candlelit rooms.
Winter
Warmth that carries through cold air
Cold air mutes and slows a fragrance, so winter rewards the dense and the warm: resins, smoke, vanilla, leather, and ambered spice that radiate heat against the chill. The bar shows how strongly this particular scent holds up and glows in cold weather.
Spring
Fresh blooms in mild, rising warmth
Mild, humid air lifts lighter compositions beautifully, so spring favors dewy florals, green stems, soft powder, and transparent citrus that feel alive rather than heavy. The bar shows how well this particular scent matches that fresh, gently warming season.
Summer
Bright and airy in real heat
Heat amplifies and projects scent hard, so summer calls for cool, crisp, breathable things: sharp citrus, salty marine air, aromatic herbs, and watery freshness that refresh instead of cloy. The bar shows how comfortably this particular scent wears in real warmth.
Fall
Spiced warmth for cooling days
As temperatures drop, richer materials read clearly without smothering, so autumn suits dry woods, warm spice, tobacco, amber, and golden fruit that feel cozy and contemplative. The bar shows how naturally this particular scent settles into crisp, cooling days.
Best Worn
Made for deep winter nights and the kind of evening that leaves questions behind, for the wearer who treats a little discomfort in a perfume as a feature rather than a flaw.
Choose options
The Vibe
The Nose
David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi
Perfumer
Bucharest-based Romanian who came to perfumery from filmmaking and founded Toskovat' in 2022. He composed Toskovat' Inexcusable Evil, Toskovat' Age of Innocence, Toskovat' Anarchist A_, Toskovat' In the Belly of the Beast and Adi ale Van Gethsemane.
More by this noseInexcusable EvilLast Birthday CakePornstar (Noyau Doux)
The Maison
Toskovat
Perfume as short fiction. Gunpowder, cold iodine and burnt sugar tell stories most houses would never print.
A Toskovat feels like a scene from a film you are not sure you were meant to watch. Cold metallic air, smoke, wax, and a gourmand sweetness that always arrives with a shadow behind it. These are conceptual extraits for people who want a fragrance to say something, and the projection tends to match the intensity of the idea.
- Origin
- Russia
- Known for
- Conceptual extraits, Inexcusable Evil
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