Nasomatto
Narcotic V
The Story
Narcotic V. came out of what Nasomatto calls research into the overpowering force of feminine seduction. As with everything Gualtieri signs, the formula is withheld and the effect is left to make the argument.
White Floral
Heady blooms, narcotic and creamy
Lush, creamy petals that turn heady and almost narcotic, with a ripe, indolic sweetness edged in green and a hint of overripe fruit. It feels sensual and intoxicating, the kind of bloom that fills a room and lingers on warm skin.
Tuberose
creamy white petals, heady and carnal
A heady, creamy white flower, intensely sweet with a mentholated, almost rubbery and faintly meaty undertone. It feels opulent and carnal, the kind of bloom that fills a room and lingers, equal parts seductive and slightly intoxicating.
Animalic
Warm skin, musk and muscle
A raw, body-warm muskiness that reads of skin, hair, and fur, sometimes sweet and powdery, sometimes sharp and faintly feral. It feels primal and intimate, blurring the line between perfume and the person wearing it.
Tuberose
Carnal white flower that opens after dark
What it is
The waxy white flower of Polianthes tuberosa, a tuberous-rooted plant native to Mexico and now grown chiefly in India and Egypt. Historically captured by enfleurage onto fat; today the picked blossoms are solvent-extracted to a concrete, which is then washed with alcohol to yield the absolute.
How it smells
A heady, creamy white floral with a buttery lactonic richness, green sappy edges and a mentholated coolness on top. Beneath runs a warm, almost fleshy and indolic depth tinged with eugenol spice, giving tuberose its famously narcotic, sometimes overwhelming character.
In perfumery
A powerful heart note prized for its diffusive, three-dimensional presence, often built around gardenia, jasmine, orange blossom and coconut-lactonic accords. It defines bold white florals and the great tuberose soliflores, the benchmark by which others are judged.
Good to know
Tuberose absolute is among the costliest florals, with sources citing roughly 6,000 to 8,000 kilograms of fresh flowers for a single kilogram of absolute. The blossoms keep releasing scent after picking, the very property that once made the slow enfleurage method worthwhile.
Jasmine
The heady white flower at perfumery's beating heart
What it is
Jasmine is the blossom of climbing shrubs in the olive family, chiefly Jasminum grandiflorum, grown in Egypt, India and Morocco, plus Jasminum sambac from India. The fragile flowers are picked by hand from before first light into the morning, solvent-extracted with hexane into a waxy concrete, then washed with ethanol to yield the absolute.
How it smells
A warm, lush white floral, sweet and honeyed with an animalic underside. Sambac leans green, tea-like and luminous; grandiflorum reads fruitier and creamier, with more weight. Both carry a heady, narcotic richness over a green-fruity opening, drying to a soft, skin-warm, faintly mushroomy-musky base.
In perfumery
A heart-note cornerstone, bridging citrus tops and woody bases while lending volume, sensuality and rounded floral body. It pairs with rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood and musk. Jasmine anchors many of the great classic florals and can stand alone as a radiant soliflore.
Good to know
Roughly five thousand hand-picked flowers yield a single gram of absolute, ranking natural jasmine among the costliest perfume materials. Part of its depth comes from indole, a molecule that smells frankly animalic, close to decay, when concentrated, yet reads radiant and living at the small percentage the flower naturally holds.
Lily
Cool white trumpets, green stems and golden pollen
What it is
Lily refers to true lilies of the genus Lilium, large trumpet-shaped flowers such as Casablanca and stargazer. The living blooms yield almost no extractable oil, so the lily note is built largely as a perfumer's headspace reconstruction, recreating the flower's scent from synthetic and natural floral materials.
How it smells
Fresh, cool and creamy white-floral with a green, slightly waxy edge and a peppery, spicy lift. A dewy, watery transparency sits over a fuller honeyed heart, with a touch of golden pollen warmth. It falls between the lushness of tuberose and the clean coolness of magnolia.
In perfumery
A heart note giving radiant, dewy volume to white-floral and modern bouquets, blending with rose, freesia, magnolia, green notes and soft musks. The cool lily accord shapes single-flower lily soliflores and lends a powdery floral character to many modern bouquets.
Good to know
Because true lily cannot be steam-distilled economically, the note is an act of reconstruction built from headspace analysis of the live flower. Note that lily of the valley, or muguet, is an unrelated plant and also a reconstruction, so the two lily notes smell quite different.
Spices
A warm drawer of dried seeds and bark
What it is
An umbrella for aromatic plant parts grown across tropical Asia, the Middle East and the Caribbean: dried seeds, bark, buds, roots and berries like cardamom, clove, cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg and ginger. Their aroma is captured through steam-distilled essential oils, CO2 extracts, or oleoresins pressed from the dried material.
How it smells
Warm and dry on contact, with prickly heat from pepper and ginger, sweet woody bark from cinnamon, and the dark eugenol bite of clove. Underneath run resinous, faintly bitter, earthy tones. The drydown turns rounder and softly sweet, holding a glowing woody warmth.
In perfumery
Usually a heart accent bridging fresh tops and warm bases, adding lift, friction and warmth. Spices pair naturally with rose, amber, woods and tobacco. A barbershop spice opening, a carnation-clove heart and a chili-cinnamon punch all showcase the family.
Good to know
The medieval spice trade reshaped history: nutmeg and clove once traded above gold by weight, fueling Venetian, Portuguese and Dutch fortunes. Eugenol, the molecule behind clove and one of perfumery's oldest workhorses, is now capped by IFRA at low concentrations because it can sensitize skin.
Fragrance Character
It opens with tuberose at full volume, waxy and indolic, the jasmine threading underneath with a honeyed, almost carnal weight. The spices give it friction, keeping the lily from softening the composition into sweetness. As it settles, it draws closer to the skin, becoming something more intimate and bodily than floral.
Longevity
how long it stays on skin
This gauge reads the expected wear time, how many hours the fragrance keeps speaking on skin before it fades. A marker near the low end means a few fleeting hours, while a marker pushed to the far end promises a scent still present from morning into night.
Sillage
the size of its scent trail
This reads how far the fragrance reaches beyond you and the trail it leaves behind. Low sits soft against the skin, an intimate whisper noticed only up close; high climbs through moderate and strong toward enormous, filling a room and lingering in the air after you have left it.
Experimental
For the bold and curious
Unconventional, boundary-pushing scents for someone who wants to provoke a reaction and stand apart. Suited to artistic, challenging compositions: inky tar, rubber, fermented fruit, metallic or animalic facets that defy easy liking. On this wheel a glowing coin means it rewards the adventurous nose, a dim one means it plays things safe.
Office
Polished but never overpowering
Close-quarters professional settings where a scent should be noticed only by those near you. Suited to restrained, clean compositions with modest projection: tidy citrus, soft musk, pale woods that read competent and considerate. On this wheel a glowing coin means it works in shared workspaces, a dim one means it carries too far.
Evening
After dark, turned up
Dinners, drinks, and nights out when a fragrance can deepen and project with confidence. Suited to richer, warmer compositions: ambers, resins, smoky woods, or plush florals that bloom under low light. On this wheel a glowing coin means the scent comes alive after sundown, a dim one means it stays better suited to daytime.
Romantic
Close enough to be felt
Intimate moments and date nights meant to draw someone nearer. Suited to warm, sensual compositions that hum against skin: creamy florals, vanilla, soft musk, a touch of spice or amber that invites closeness. On this wheel a glowing coin means it sets an alluring mood, a dim one means it leans more practical than seductive.
Formal
Refined for the occasion that matters
Weddings, ceremonies, galas, and dressed-up affairs that call for composure and elegance. Suited to polished, structured scents with quiet authority: smooth woods, refined florals, soft leather, nothing loud or playful. On this wheel a glowing coin means it carries the right gravitas, a dim one means it feels too casual for the room.
Casual
Easy comfort for unhurried days
Everyday wear with no agenda: errands, coffee, friends, a slow weekend. Suited to soft, approachable scents that feel clean and natural, like fresh citrus, light woods, or a gentle skin warmth. On this wheel a glowing coin means the fragrance fits these laid-back moments, a dim one means it asks for more.
Day to Night
where its mood naturally falls
This slider reads the hour the fragrance was made for. A marker to the left leans luminous and bright, easy in daylight and open air; slide it right and the character turns deeper and warmer, the kind of presence that belongs to evening and candlelit rooms.
Winter
Warmth that carries through cold air
Cold air mutes and slows a fragrance, so winter rewards the dense and the warm: resins, smoke, vanilla, leather, and ambered spice that radiate heat against the chill. The bar shows how strongly this particular scent holds up and glows in cold weather.
Spring
Fresh blooms in mild, rising warmth
Mild, humid air lifts lighter compositions beautifully, so spring favors dewy florals, green stems, soft powder, and transparent citrus that feel alive rather than heavy. The bar shows how well this particular scent matches that fresh, gently warming season.
Summer
Bright and airy in real heat
Heat amplifies and projects scent hard, so summer calls for cool, crisp, breathable things: sharp citrus, salty marine air, aromatic herbs, and watery freshness that refresh instead of cloy. The bar shows how comfortably this particular scent wears in real warmth.
Fall
Spiced warmth for cooling days
As temperatures drop, richer materials read clearly without smothering, so autumn suits dry woods, warm spice, tobacco, amber, and golden fruit that feel cozy and contemplative. The bar shows how naturally this particular scent settles into crisp, cooling days.
Best Worn
Spring and summer evenings when heat amplifies white florals; it wears as presence, not accessory. One to audition on skin before any full bottle.
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The Vibe
The Nose
Alessandro Gualtieri
Founder and perfumer
Italian perfumer who began in a German fragrance lab, then made scents for Fendi, Versace and Helmut Lang before founding his own Amsterdam houses Nasomatto and Orto Parisi. He composes them himself, including Nasomatto Black Afgano, Nasomatto Silver Musk, Orto Parisi Megamare and Orto Parisi Bergamask.
More by this noseMegamareBlack AfganoBaraonda
The Maison
Nasomatto
Gualtieri’s wordless extraits. Short names, long shadows, small vials.
Nasomatto treats a bottle less like a fragrance and more like a substance you keep behind glass, dense extrait concentrations that lean animalic, resinous and a little disobedient. A Nasomatto walks into the room as a smell first and a perfume second.
- Origin
- Amsterdam, Netherlands
- Founded
- 2007
- Known for
- Black Afgano, Baraonda
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