Folkwinds
Jasper no Kodō III
Cold conifer air with berries in it. Wild blackberry and juniper over hemlock and century-old fir, then green agarwood and mountain thyme, then a base of green frankincense and white ambergris that reads like altitude rather than weight.
The Story
Jono Bornstein has called Jasper no Kodō the North Star of the house, its flagship, an attempt to put the Canadian Rockies in a bottle. This is the third pass at it. In his own words the formula was rebuilt from the ground up with a focus on clarity, calmer and cooler than the second, refocused on what made it work in the first place: the balance of conifers and incense.
Folkwinds releases are single-batch and vary slightly between runs. This one sold out on preorder.
The Nose
Composed by Jono Bornstein, founder of Folkwinds, who blends every batch himself.
Woody
Dry grain of cut timber
The smell of cedar shavings, sandalwood, and dry vetiver roots, a sanded, resinous warmth with a faint pencil-box rasp. It feels grounded and composed, the quiet backbone that makes a scent read as serious and lasting.
Green
Crushed leaves and cut stems
The sharp, sappy scent of crushed leaves, snapped stems, and bruised grass, cool and slightly bitter with a vivid living freshness. It feels vibrant and outdoorsy, like a garden just after pruning, raw and unmistakably alive.
Oud
Dark resinous wood with depth
A dense, resinous wood that smells warm and slightly medicinal, with a leathery, animal-tinged smokiness and a sweet, almost barnyard funk underneath. It feels ancient and brooding, wrapping the skin in something thick and quietly powerful.
Fruity
Ripe orchard flush of juice
The succulent sweetness of peach, pear, apple, or berry, soft and dewy with a nectar-like ripeness distinct from sharp citrus. It brings a playful, mouthwatering roundness that feels youthful, juicy, and lighthearted.
Aromatic
Crushed herbs in cool air
The green, camphorous coolness of lavender, rosemary, sage, and thyme, like herbs bruised between the fingers. It feels clean, invigorating, and a touch austere, the crisp backbone of a classic barbershop freshness.
Balsamic
Warm resin and sweet amber
A warm, syrupy richness of tree resins and golden amber, soft and slightly sweet with a vanillic, almost honeyed glow. It feels enveloping and slow, settling into the skin like candlelight, comforting and faintly sacred.
Wild Blackberries
Dark berry juice with a wild edge
What it is
A dark berry note with a wild, hedgerow edge. Blackberry brings depth where lighter fruits bring shine.
How it smells
Juicy and dark, sweet pulp with a tart skin and a faint violet shadow. It reads riper and moodier than its red cousins.
In perfumery
Blackberry deepens florals and gives woods and oud a lush, wine-dark fruitiness. It thrives in rich, nocturnal compositions.
Good to know
Blackberry keeps its depth well into the heart, leaving a soft dark-fruit warmth in the drydown.
Boronia
Copal
Palo Santo
Juniper Berries
Resinous blue berries that breathe gin and pine forest
What it is
The seed cones of Juniperus communis, an evergreen conifer of northern-hemisphere heaths and mountains. The fleshy blue-black berry-like cones ripen over two to three years. Dried, then steam-distilled, they yield a pale essential oil, the same berry that flavors gin.
How it smells
Crisp, dry and resinous: green pine needles, fresh-cracked pepper and a cool turpentine bite over balsamic warmth. The opening reads gin-like and aromatic, almost minty, then settles into woody, slightly camphorous resin with a faint sweet, sappy undertone.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart note prized in fougeres, chypres and aromatic colognes for crisp, herbal lift. It pairs with lavender, vetiver, cardamom and citrus. Juniper berry threads through the tops of countless gin-toned, aromatic-woody compositions.
Good to know
Juniper has perfumed ritual for millennia; branches were burned as fumigant in plague-era hospitals and sickrooms. The plant is dioecious, so only female bushes bear the aromatic cones, and slow multi-year ripening leaves green and ripe berries sharing one branch.
Canadian Hemlock
Canadian Fir Absolute
A cold forest breathed in at first light
What it is
Fir scents come from true firs of the genus Abies, especially balsam fir (Abies balsamea) of eastern Canada and silver fir of Europe. Needles and young twigs are steam-distilled into a clear needle oil, or twigs are solvent-extracted into a thick, dark fir balsam absolute.
How it smells
The distilled oil is bright, green and resinous, sappy and almost fruity, with a clean coniferous coolness recalling crushed Christmas-tree needles. The absolute runs deeper and sweeter, jam-like and intensely balsamic, with a coumarin-tinged, slightly smoky warmth that lingers far longer.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart note in the distilled form and a tenacious base in the absolute, fir builds forest, fougere and aromatic-woody accords. It pairs with cedar, lavender, oakmoss and incense, and anchors dense coniferous compositions such as Slumberhouse Norne and many cool-weather woody fragrances.
Good to know
Fir balsam, the sticky oleoresin tapped from blisters on balsam fir bark, was historically prized as Canada balsam, a glass-clear cement for microscope slides and lenses thanks to its refractive index matching crown glass. The same forests supplied resin for both science and scent.
Wild Mountain Thyme
Sun-baked Mediterranean herb, sharp and medicinal
What it is
Thyme is a small woody Mediterranean shrub, Thymus vulgaris, in the mint family, grown across southern France, Spain, and North Africa. Its leafy flowering tops are steam-distilled, often after partial drying, into an essential oil rich in phenols, chiefly thymol with some carvacrol.
How it smells
Intensely herbal, green, and aromatic, with a sharp phenolic-medicinal bite from thymol and a warm, slightly spicy, camphorous edge. It reads dry, peppery, and clean at first, then settles into a softer woody-herbaceous warmth recalling sun-warmed garrigue and culinary thyme.
In perfumery
A top-to-heart note contributing freshness, herbal lift, and aromatic complexity. It sharpens fougeres and aromatic chypres alongside lavender, rosemary, and oakmoss, and accents barbershop and masculine styles. A classic herbal signature in fougere and aromatic-fresh compositions built around Provencal herbs.
Good to know
Thyme exists as several chemotypes, plants identical in appearance but yielding different oils with soil, altitude, and climate. The thymol type smells sharp and medicinal, while the linalool and geraniol types are softer and sweeter, so the same species can vary dramatically by origin.
Green Kyen Agarwood
Deep resinous agarwood, smoky and quietly animalic
What it is
The dark heart of oud perfumery, prized for its depth and shadow. Few notes carry this much presence in so small a dose.
How it smells
Deep resinous agarwood character. Smoky, dark and quietly animalic as it settles into the skin.
In perfumery
A commanding base note that anchors rose, spice, amber and incense. It gives a composition weight, mystery and remarkable staying power.
Good to know
Oud rewards patience. The smoke softens over the hours and a warm, leathery sweetness comes forward in the drydown.
Wild Elderberries
Creamy white blossom of the elder tree
What it is
Elderflower is the lacy cream-white blossom of the elder tree, Sambucus nigra, native to Europe and western Asia. The flat flower heads bloom in early summer. Because the delicate scent resists distillation, perfumery relies mainly on headspace analysis and reconstructions, with absolutes or infusions occasionally made for natural work.
How it smells
Soft, fresh and gently sweet: muscat grapes and pear cordial laced with a green, faintly creamy floral haze. There is a honeyed nectar lift, a whisper of cat-like sharpness, and a cool dewy transparency, like a hedgerow in bloom on a warm morning.
In perfumery
Elderflower brings a fresh, nectarous green-floral sparkle to summery and fruity-floral compositions, pairing with muscat grape, pear, lychee, white musk and other delicate florals. It anchors fresh elderflower-and-gooseberry style accords and lends a juicy floral lift to many contemporary fresh scents.
Good to know
The same blossoms are steeped into elderflower cordial and elderflower liqueur, so the note carries a built-in echo of summer drinks. Raw elder, including unripe berries and the green parts of the plant, contains cyanogenic compounds and is mildly toxic until cooked.
Blue Water Lily
The sacred water lily of pharaohs and dreams
What it is
Blue lotus is Nymphaea caerulea, the blue Egyptian water lily, a star-petalled flower rooted in Nile mud and ponds across North and East Africa. The blossoms are solvent-extracted with hexane into a concrete, then ethanol-washed into a thick, dark absolute that preserves their delicate aromatic compounds.
How it smells
Sweet and honeyed with a green, watery floralcy and soft fruity, lychee-like undertones, edged by an earthy, slightly spicy warmth and a waxy, powdery backbone. It opens cool and aquatic like a pond at dawn, then dries down resinous and balsamic, more meditative than bright.
In perfumery
A heart note prized for an exotic floral character bridging aquatic freshness and warm sweetness, typically dosed below five percent given its strength. Rare and costly, it appears in niche compositions and amber-incense accords built around ancient Egyptian and meditative themes.
Good to know
Ancient Egyptians revered the flower as a symbol of rebirth and the sun, depicting it on tomb walls and steeping it in wine for its mild psychoactive effect. It opens at dawn and closes at dusk, a daily cycle that tied it to resurrection myths.
Wild Tigerwood
Deep resinous agarwood, smoky and quietly animalic
What it is
The dark heart of oud perfumery, prized for its depth and shadow. Few notes carry this much presence in so small a dose.
How it smells
Deep resinous agarwood character. Smoky, dark and quietly animalic as it settles into the skin.
In perfumery
A commanding base note that anchors rose, spice, amber and incense. It gives a composition weight, mystery and remarkable staying power.
Good to know
Oud rewards patience. The smoke softens over the hours and a warm, leathery sweetness comes forward in the drydown.
Green Sacra Absolute
Sacred smoke distilled from desert tree tears
What it is
Frankincense, or olibanum, is the dried gum resin of Boswellia trees, with Boswellia sacra of Oman, Yemen and Somalia among the most prized. The bark is scored and weeps a milky sap that hardens over weeks into golden tears, later steam-distilled or solvent-extracted for perfumery.
How it smells
Fresh, resinous and luminous, with a clean coniferous-citrus brightness from alpha-pinene and limonene over a dry, balsamic woody base. It carries a cool, peppery, almost lemony lift, then settles into the warm, dusty incense smoke familiar from churches and temples.
In perfumery
Used in heart and base, it adds a meditative, smoky resinous spine and a soaring transparency. It pairs with myrrh, rose, oud and labdanum, and lifts heavy oriental accords. It centers many incense-built compositions and defines the cathedral-incense theme.
Good to know
Frankincense has been traded for over five thousand years and once moved along Arabian incense routes at prices rivaling gold. Wild Boswellia populations are now declining from over-tapping, drought and grazing, raising real concern over the long-term sustainability of the harvest.
Jade Wood
White Ambergris
Sun-cured sea treasure, the palest rarest grade
What it is
The highest grade of ambergris, a waxy mass formed in the gut of the sperm whale and expelled to drift at sea. Years of sun and saltwater bleach the lump from black toward dusty white and oxidize its near-odorless triterpene ambrein into the fragrant ambroxide and ambrinol.
How it smells
Soft, sweet and marine, the most refined and well-rounded of the ambergris grades. It evokes clean skin, warm musk, tobacco and seaside air over a velvety mineral sweetness. Pale and faintly powdery, it has shed the fecal animalic edge of fresher, darker pieces.
In perfumery
A radiant base note and fixative, used as a tincture that lends warmth, diffusion and a skin-like glow while extending other materials. It pairs with rose, citrus and labdanum; vintage classics and old-school orientals leaned on it before Ambroxan reproduced its core character synthetically.
Good to know
Aged white ambergris is the rarest and dearest grade, fetching thousands of dollars per kilogram. Gathered only by beachcombing washed-up pieces, it is sourced without harming whales, yet its trade is banned in some countries, including the United States, because the sperm whale is protected.
Pine Needle Absolute
Fragrance Character
Woods and green lead, with a green agarwood through the middle that is resinous rather than barnyard, wild berries keeping the top from turning austere, and a balsamic conifer base. Accords here are read from the published note list, since no aggregator has scored it yet.
Longevity
how long it stays on skin
This gauge reads the expected wear time, how many hours the fragrance keeps speaking on skin before it fades. A marker near the low end means a few fleeting hours, while a marker pushed to the far end promises a scent still present from morning into night.
Sillage
the size of its scent trail
This reads how far the fragrance reaches beyond you and the trail it leaves behind. Low sits soft against the skin, an intimate whisper noticed only up close; high climbs through moderate and strong toward enormous, filling a room and lingering in the air after you have left it.
Experimental
For the bold and curious
Unconventional, boundary-pushing scents for someone who wants to provoke a reaction and stand apart. Suited to artistic, challenging compositions: inky tar, rubber, fermented fruit, metallic or animalic facets that defy easy liking. On this wheel a glowing coin means it rewards the adventurous nose, a dim one means it plays things safe.
Office
Polished but never overpowering
Close-quarters professional settings where a scent should be noticed only by those near you. Suited to restrained, clean compositions with modest projection: tidy citrus, soft musk, pale woods that read competent and considerate. On this wheel a glowing coin means it works in shared workspaces, a dim one means it carries too far.
Evening
After dark, turned up
Dinners, drinks, and nights out when a fragrance can deepen and project with confidence. Suited to richer, warmer compositions: ambers, resins, smoky woods, or plush florals that bloom under low light. On this wheel a glowing coin means the scent comes alive after sundown, a dim one means it stays better suited to daytime.
Romantic
Close enough to be felt
Intimate moments and date nights meant to draw someone nearer. Suited to warm, sensual compositions that hum against skin: creamy florals, vanilla, soft musk, a touch of spice or amber that invites closeness. On this wheel a glowing coin means it sets an alluring mood, a dim one means it leans more practical than seductive.
Formal
Refined for the occasion that matters
Weddings, ceremonies, galas, and dressed-up affairs that call for composure and elegance. Suited to polished, structured scents with quiet authority: smooth woods, refined florals, soft leather, nothing loud or playful. On this wheel a glowing coin means it carries the right gravitas, a dim one means it feels too casual for the room.
Casual
Easy comfort for unhurried days
Everyday wear with no agenda: errands, coffee, friends, a slow weekend. Suited to soft, approachable scents that feel clean and natural, like fresh citrus, light woods, or a gentle skin warmth. On this wheel a glowing coin means the fragrance fits these laid-back moments, a dim one means it asks for more.
Day to Night
where its mood naturally falls
This slider reads the hour the fragrance was made for. A marker to the left leans luminous and bright, easy in daylight and open air; slide it right and the character turns deeper and warmer, the kind of presence that belongs to evening and candlelit rooms.
Winter
Warmth that carries through cold air
Cold air mutes and slows a fragrance, so winter rewards the dense and the warm: resins, smoke, vanilla, leather, and ambered spice that radiate heat against the chill. The bar shows how strongly this particular scent holds up and glows in cold weather.
Spring
Fresh blooms in mild, rising warmth
Mild, humid air lifts lighter compositions beautifully, so spring favors dewy florals, green stems, soft powder, and transparent citrus that feel alive rather than heavy. The bar shows how well this particular scent matches that fresh, gently warming season.
Summer
Bright and airy in real heat
Heat amplifies and projects scent hard, so summer calls for cool, crisp, breathable things: sharp citrus, salty marine air, aromatic herbs, and watery freshness that refresh instead of cloy. The bar shows how comfortably this particular scent wears in real warmth.
Fall
Spiced warmth for cooling days
As temperatures drop, richer materials read clearly without smothering, so autumn suits dry woods, warm spice, tobacco, amber, and golden fruit that feel cozy and contemplative. The bar shows how naturally this particular scent settles into crisp, cooling days.
Best Worn
Cold clear days and high places. It is the most wearable-in-daylight thing in this group.
Why the Jasper no Kodō III Decant
A single small batch, sold out on preorder, and Folkwinds runs vary slightly from one to the next. A decant is how you get this particular one.
Official Notes
Wild Blackberries · Boronia · Copal · Palo Santo · Juniper Berries · Canadian Hemlock · Canadian Fir Absolute · Wild Mountain Thyme · Green Kyen Agarwood · Wild Elderberries · Blue Water Lily · Wild Tigerwood · Green Sacra Absolute · Jade Wood · White Ambergris · Pine Needle Absolute
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