Folkwinds
Midwinter Storm
Midwinter Storm abre con hielo de manzana fermentada y centeno mordiente, y luego se desploma en un núcleo denso y empolvado de raíz de orris (iris) tan concentrado que se percibe menos como una nota que como una sustancia – blanco, almidonado y frío, anclado en profundidad por tres maderas de agar (oud) distintas y una base de sándalo con la untuosidad de la crema tibia.
La Historia
Parte de la Reserve Series de Folkwinds, Midwinter Storm está concebida como un soliflore de iris de espectro completo, construida a partir de todos los materiales e isolados naturales de iris disponibles, apilados a las concentraciones más altas posibles. La base polvorosa de iris queda anclada por agarwoods de primera categoría, con sándalo ocupando el lugar del benjuí más convencional. Lanzada en 2026 como edición estrictamente limitada de 50 frascos.
El Perfumista
Midwinter Storm fue compuesta por Jono Bornstein, el nariz detrás del catálogo de Folkwinds, incluyendo Cloud Illusions, Santi Ana y By-And-By.
Floral
pétalos en plena y suave floración
El aroma redondo y aterciopelado de las flores abiertas, suave y levemente dulce, con un resplandor empolvado y de néctar. Resulta romántico y delicado, evocando un jardín a finales de la primavera y una sensación de ligereza sobre la piel.
Amaderado
grano seco de la madera cortada
El olor de las virutas de cedro, el sándalo y las raíces secas de vetiver, una calidez lijada y resinosa con un leve raspar de caja de lápices. Resulta enraizado y sereno, la callada columna que hace que un perfume se lea serio y duradero.
Empolvado
silencio suave de la piel arreglada
Una suavidad aterciopelada y levemente seca de raíz de iris, violeta y talco fino, como polvos de tocador o lino limpio entibiado por la piel. Resulta íntimo, refinado y nostálgico, difuminando el perfume en una bruma suave y mullida.
Fresco
aire limpio tras el agua fría
Un brillo nítido y transparente que sugiere agua fría, piel recién lavada y aire libre, a menudo trenzado con una elevación cítrica o acuática. Resulta limpio e ingrávido, refrescante al instante y sin complicaciones, como salir al exterior después de la lluvia.
Lactónico
leche cremosa y piel cálida
Una suavidad cremosa y láctea que recuerda a la leche tibia al vapor, a la nata o a la pulpa del coco, sin la dulzura. Resulta mullida y envolvente, alisando flores y maderas hacia algo tierno y levemente nostálgico, como el consuelo de los lácteos calientes.
Sidra de Hielo
Orchard fruit gone warm and faintly boozy
What it is
An evocative accord rather than a single raw material, built to conjure pressed apples fermenting toward cider. Perfumers reconstruct it from fruity esters, apple aroma molecules, a touch of acetic tang and warm spice, since fermented cider itself is not distilled for scent.
How it smells
Crushed ripe apple, sweet and juicy, edged with a tart vinegary sparkle and a soft yeasty, faintly boozy warmth. Mulling spices of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg often hover at the edges, giving an autumnal, just-pressed orchard impression that feels cozy and a little tipsy.
In perfumery
A heart accord driving fruity-gourmand and seasonal autumn compositions. It blends with cinnamon, caramel, brown sugar, woods and ambers, and sits naturally beside other orchard and harvest notes. It anchors cozy fall and apple-orchard themed fragrances and home scents.
Good to know
The bright apple lift in such accords often leans on alpha-damascone, a rose-ketone prized for its fruity apple effect with floral and plum nuances. So beneath the juice and spice a cider note can carry a surprising soft rosy glow from that single molecule.
Especia de Centeno
Caraway-dark crust of warm rye loaf
What it is
Rye Spice is the warm, aromatic facet of rye grain and its bread rather than a single distilled oil. Perfumers reconstruct it from caraway, cumin and fennel-type seed materials layered over toasted-grain and yeasty accords, echoing the dark loaf that rye flour bakes into.
How it smells
Astringent, peppery caraway leads, edged with anise coolness and warm cumin. Beneath sits toasted crust, a sourdough tang and a faintly earthy, molasses sweetness. The overall impression reads dry, grainy and rustic, more savoury bakery than dessert, with a lingering seeded warmth.
In perfumery
Used as a gourmand-spice bridge, it lends edible warmth to amber, tobacco and leather bases and pairs with coffee, fig, immortelle and dark woods. It anchors playful bread-and-grain accords, the kind of rustic loaf effect explored in Demeter's Rye Bread and savoury niche gourmands.
Good to know
Caraway, the seed that defines rye's character, is not the grain itself but a spice baked into the dough. Its pungency comes from S-carvone, the mirror-image twin of the R-carvone that makes spearmint smell cool and sweet, the same atoms built the opposite way.
Arándano
A rare all-natural impression, painted from fruits and resins
What it is
There is no blueberry essential oil — the fruit yields nothing usable by distillation or expression, so a true natural blueberry simply does not exist as a raw material. What artisanal natural-perfume houses offer instead is a hand-built accord: an artful impression assembled entirely from natural ingredients, with not a single synthetic in the blend. It is a reconstruction, an interpretation of the berry, never an extract of it.
How it smells
Soft, plump and gently jammy, with a cool blue-purple sweetness and a quiet green-leaf edge that keeps it from turning sugary. Because it is woven from naturals, it reads rounder, warmer and more three-dimensional than a single fruity chemical — the smell shifts and breathes as it dries rather than holding one flat note. The effect is less photo-real and more painterly: a suggestion of blueberry rather than a sharp snapshot.
In perfumery
The accord is coaxed from natural fruity and aromatic materials — think jammy fruit-toned absolutes, berry-leaning floral and herbal extracts, a whisper of wine-like or balsamic facets, and soft musky naturals to give body. A perfumer layers these so the brain assembles 'blueberry' from many honest parts, none of which is the fruit itself. It lends a fresh, fruity glow to the top and early heart, flattering florals and soft woods.
Good to know
This all-natural route is the connoisseur's path and a genuine rarity: natural materials are costly, vary batch to batch, and demand real skill to balance into a convincing berry. The trade-off for that expense and labor is honesty and depth — a living, slightly unpredictable accord rather than a fixed one. If a fragrance smells of blueberry yet declares itself fully natural, it is this patient reconstruction at work, not a bottled fruit.
Picea Blanca
Cool northern forest air made fragrant
What it is
A tall evergreen conifer, Picea rubens, native to eastern Canada and the northeastern United States, ranging from the Adirondacks down the Appalachians. The aroma material is an essential oil steam-distilled from the freshly cut needles and small twigs of the tree.
How it smells
Softer and sweeter than most evergreen oils, with a clean balsamic, resinous heart. It opens fresh and green with a crisp coniferous snap, then reveals gentle woody warmth and a subtle fruity facet, rounder and less sharp than pine or fir needle oils.
In perfumery
A fresh top-to-heart note bringing airy, forest-clean character to woody, aromatic and fougere accords. It pairs with cedar, fir balsam, vetiver and citrus, lending a crisp, outdoorsy evergreen lift especially suited to cool-weather and coniferous compositions.
Good to know
Spruce gum, the hardened resin of red and black spruce, was chewed across rural North America and sold by John Curtis from 1848 as the continent's first commercial chewing gum. Red spruce also supplies prized resonant tonewood for guitar and violin soundboards.
Iris
Powdered violet rooted in patient buried earth
What it is
Orris is the aroma material from the rhizome of iris flowers, chiefly Iris pallida grown in the hills of Tuscany. The roots are harvested, dried and aged three to six years so enzymes slowly develop irones, then ground and steam-distilled into a waxy, ivory orris butter.
How it smells
A cool, powdery violet scent with a suede-like, almost edible carrot-and-raw-flour facet. It reads dry rather than sweet, evoking face powder, soft leather and damp soil, carrying a silvery, slightly metallic shimmer that feels both floral and rooty at once.
In perfumery
A heart and base material prized for its body and a powdery lift that smooths sharp florals and woods. It pairs with violet, rose, iris leaf and ambrette. It defines a whole lineage of refined powdery-iris and aldehydic-floral compositions.
Good to know
Orris ranks among the costliest naturals in perfumery. A ton of aged rhizome yields only about two kilograms of orris butter, and high-irone grades can exceed one hundred thousand dollars per kilogram, the cost driven by years of aging before any scent develops.
Loto Azul
The sacred water lily of pharaohs and dreams
What it is
Blue lotus is Nymphaea caerulea, the blue Egyptian water lily, a star-petalled flower rooted in Nile mud and ponds across North and East Africa. The blossoms are solvent-extracted with hexane into a concrete, then ethanol-washed into a thick, dark absolute that preserves their delicate aromatic compounds.
How it smells
Sweet and honeyed with a green, watery floralcy and soft fruity, lychee-like undertones, edged by an earthy, slightly spicy warmth and a waxy, powdery backbone. It opens cool and aquatic like a pond at dawn, then dries down resinous and balsamic, more meditative than bright.
In perfumery
A heart note prized for an exotic floral character bridging aquatic freshness and warm sweetness, typically dosed below five percent given its strength. Rare and costly, it appears in niche compositions and amber-incense accords built around ancient Egyptian and meditative themes.
Good to know
Ancient Egyptians revered the flower as a symbol of rebirth and the sun, depicting it on tomb walls and steeping it in wine for its mild psychoactive effect. It opens at dawn and closes at dusk, a daily cycle that tied it to resurrection myths.
Absoluto de Aglaia
Rice-grain blossoms breathing fruit and green tea
What it is
Aglaia Absolute is solvent-extracted from the tiny golden flowers of Aglaia odorata, a shrub in the mahogany family known as the Chinese Perfume Tree or Chinese Rice Flower. Each bloom is barely the size of a rice grain, so yields are minute and the absolute remains genuinely rare.
How it smells
Sweetly fruity and floral, with juicy peach and pear flesh wrapped around a soft, leafy green-tea note. A gentle lemony radiance lifts the top, earning the plant the nickname mock lemon, while a quiet hay-like warmth settles underneath, giving an impression both luminous and rounded.
In perfumery
A precious natural used in small touches, it adds fruity-floral radiance and tea-like freshness to oriental, amber and East-Asian themed bouquets. It blends naturally with osmanthus, peach, oolong and forest-green accords, reading as a softer, sunnier cousin to osmanthus in fine fragrance.
Good to know
The plant belongs to Meliaceae, the same botanical family as true mahogany, an unusually woody lineage for so delicate a flower. Its yellow blooms are at their most fragrant by day, releasing a strong lemony-floral scent that gives the tree its perfume-plant name.
Musgo de Roble
The damp green soul of the forest floor
What it is
Oakmoss is not a true moss but a lichen, Evernia prunastri, growing on oak and other deciduous bark across temperate Europe, notably the Balkans, France and Morocco. The harvested thalli are solvent-extracted into a dark, viscous concrete and absolute, the raw materials used in perfumery.
How it smells
Deeply earthy and forest-green, with damp bark, wet stone and a leathery, inky undertone. A dry, faintly bitter mossiness carries marine and tar-like facets. The effect is shadowy rather than fresh, evoking the cool floor beneath old trees after rain has soaked the ground.
In perfumery
A base note and the backbone of the chypre family, lending structure, depth and a vintage signature. It pairs classically with bergamot, labdanum and patchouli. It defines the great peach-spiced chypres and the green core of classic galbanum florals, plus countless mossy fougères and masculines.
Good to know
Oakmoss extracts contain atranol and chloroatranol, potent skin allergens the EU effectively banned in 2017. IFRA now requires reduced-allergen, low-atranol versions, capping these molecules to trace levels, which has quietly reshaped how the classic chypre smells in reformulated modern perfumes.
Vainilla
The warm sweet heart of comfort itself
What it is
Vanilla comes from the cured seed pods of Vanilla planifolia, a climbing orchid native to Mexico now grown mainly in Madagascar, Réunion and Tahiti. Green pods are picked unripe, then blanched, sweated in the sun and slow-dried over months until they darken and develop their aroma and vanillin.
How it smells
Sweet, warm and creamy, with a balsamic depth recalling custard, caramel and dried fruit, a faint smoky tobacco-like edge sitting underneath. It opens soft and gourmand, then dries into a powdery resinous warmth that clings close to skin and reads richer than synthetic vanillin alone.
In perfumery
A base note prized for richness and lasting warmth, vanilla rounds sharp edges and anchors oriental and gourmand compositions. It pairs naturally with tonka, amber, sandalwood and spice. Many of the most enduring oriental and tobacco fragrances build their core around it.
Good to know
Vanilla ranks among the costliest spices because each orchid flower opens for one day and must be hand-pollinated, a technique devised in 1841 by Edmond Albius, a twelve-year-old enslaved boy on Réunion. Most commercial vanilla flavor now relies on synthetic vanillin.
Madera de Tigre Plateada
The grain and warmth of trees themselves
What it is
A category rather than a single material, covering aromas from tree woods, roots and bark plus synthetics that extend them. It spans sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, guaiac and patchouli, drawn by steam distillation or solvent extraction, alongside lab-made woody-ambers like Iso E Super, made entirely by chemical synthesis.
How it smells
Dry to creamy, evoking sawn timber, pencil shavings, fresh resin and sun-warmed bark. Cedar reads pencil-sharp, sandalwood milky and smooth, vetiver earthy and rooty, guaiac smoky-sweet. As a group the impression is grounding, textured and faintly smoky, the backbone many compositions stand on.
In perfumery
Mostly heart and base material, woody notes give structure, longevity and a natural backbone tying a composition together. They support nearly every family, anchoring florals, ambers and fougeres. Modern woody-amber molecules drive countless contemporary scents, the dry cedar-vetiver register among them.
Good to know
Much of today's woodiness is synthetic, partly because natural sandalwood and rosewood were overharvested into protected status. A single molecule, Iso E Super, grew so dominant that an entire cult fragrance was built around it almost neat, near-imperceptible up close yet glowing on skin.
Malinau Salvaje
Vaporous blue-green agarwood, camphor lifted over ripe fruit
What it is
Genuine agarwood (Aquilaria) distilled from trees grown on Borneo — the Indonesian Kalimantan side and the Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak, among the oldest rainforests on earth. The finest examples work from real, single-origin Bornean wood rather than a reconstructed "oud" base, so the oil carries the terroir of that specific island. Borneo's distinct species and soil yield a resin profile that no synthetic oud accord reproduces.
How it smells
The signature is a high, vaporous "blue-green" lift: bright camphor and a cool mentholated whistle that some describe as magic-marker or eucalyptus, riding above ripe stone fruit — pear, peach, apricot — and a soft berry sweetness. Underneath sits a clean, golden-woody, faintly creamy base with green-floral and powdery facets, never sour or fecal. It reads airy and luminous — more forest-canopy than forest-floor.
In perfumery
Borneo oud is prized as a base note that stays lifted and radiant rather than heavy, giving a composition long wear without the funk. It marries beautifully with rose, sandalwood, amber, and green florals, its fruity-camphor top brightening a blend where Hindi would darken it. In a natural attar it can be worn neat, the camphor evaporating to reveal the fruity-woody heart over hours.
Good to know
Compare it directly to its siblings: Hindi (Assam) oud opens animalic and barnyard — hay, dung, leather; Cambodi is sweet, sticky, and jammy with red berries; Thai/Trat leans warm and resinous. Borneo splits the difference and adds the camphoraceous blue note that is uniquely its own — drier and cooler than Cambodi, cleaner and fruitier than Hindi. Genuine Bornean agarwood is scarce and slow to distill, which is why a real single-origin oil commands its price.
Malaccensis Tailandés Púrpura
Smoky leather and embered medicinal woods
What it is
Thai oud is distilled from Aquilaria crassna grown in eastern Thailand, with Trat province on the Cambodian border its most celebrated source, the same Cardamom Mountains range that yields Khmer oud. Wood is often aged for years before distillation, building the depth that defines the region's character.
How it smells
Leathery, smoky and medicinal, opening with a plush full-bodied smokiness like smouldering embers. A distinctive fruity sweetness threads through tannic leather, warm spice and honeyed tobacco, with camphorous, almost antiseptic facets that give Thai oud its bracing, resinous edge and a faint animalic warmth.
In perfumery
Thai oud bridges the sweet Cambodian and animalic Hindi styles, offering smoky leather depth without overwhelming funk, which makes it valued by artisanal distillers and blenders alike. Trat oils in particular are sought for a balanced, full-bodied profile that wears richly on skin.
Good to know
Sharing the Cardamom range with Cambodian crassna, Thai border ouds can echo Khmer sweetness while carrying more leather and smoke. Long pre-distillation ageing rounds the medicinal sharpness, and the best sustainably sourced Trat oil rivals far costlier origins for complexity.
Santaloles
Creamy meditative woods that breathe in slowly
What it is
Sandalwood oil is steam-distilled from the heartwood and roots of slow-growing Santalum trees, classically Santalum album of Mysore, India. As the wild Indian source neared collapse, plantations of the same species in tropical Western Australia now supply much of the world's perfumery-grade oil.
How it smells
Soft, creamy and milky, with a smooth woody warmth and a faintly sweet, rosy, almost buttery edge. It carries no sharpness, only a rounded balsamic depth. It stays remarkably steady on skin, glowing quietly for hours rather than opening and drying in distinct stages.
In perfumery
A base note valued as both scent and fixative, sandalwood lends creaminess, warmth and a meditative softness that binds compositions together. It pairs beautifully with rose, jasmine, vetiver and spice. Many meditative woody and incense fragrances celebrate it at their heart.
Good to know
Genuine Mysore sandalwood was so overharvested that India tightened export controls and the wild tree became vulnerable, with oil prices reported around two thousand dollars per kilogram. Plantations of Santalum album grown near Kununurra in Western Australia now sustainably recreate the original creamy profile.
Carácter de la Fragancia
La apertura es ácida y vivaz, el ice cider y el centeno cortando a través de un destello de white spruce antes de que el iris llegue con toda su fuerza, almidonado y frío, bordeado por oakmoss y un susurro de aglaia. En el corazón, el orris se suaviza de forma casi imperceptible, con la vainilla y el blue lotus aportando una leve dulzura floral sin diluir jamás el polvo. El fondo es profundo y íntimo, el Borneo y el Thai Oud fusionándose con el sándalo en algo resinoso y cálido sobre la piel, el iris todavía presente pero ahora más sentido que olido.
Duración
cuánto permanece sobre la piel
Este medidor lee el tiempo de uso esperado, cuántas horas sigue hablando el perfume sobre la piel antes de desvanecerse. Una marca cerca del extremo bajo indica unas pocas horas fugaces, mientras que una empujada al extremo opuesto promete un aroma aún presente de la mañana a la noche.
Estela
el tamaño de su estela aromática
Esto lee hasta dónde alcanza el perfume más allá de ti y la estela que deja tras de sí. Lo bajo se posa suave contra la piel, un susurro íntimo que solo se nota de cerca; lo alto asciende por lo moderado y lo fuerte hacia lo enorme, llenando una sala y persistiendo en el aire después de que te has marchado.
Experimental
para los audaces y curiosos
Aromas poco convencionales que desafían los límites, para quien quiere provocar una reacción y distinguirse. Apto para composiciones artísticas y exigentes: alquitrán entintado, goma, fruta fermentada, facetas metálicas o animálicas que rehúyen el gusto fácil. En esta rueda, una moneda encendida indica que recompensa a la nariz aventurera; una apagada, que juega sobre seguro.
Oficina
pulido pero nunca avasallador
Entornos profesionales de proximidad, donde un aroma solo debería notarse cerca de ti. Apto para composiciones contenidas y limpias de proyección modesta: cítricos pulcros, almizcle suave, maderas pálidas que se leen competentes y considerados. En esta rueda, una moneda encendida indica que funciona en espacios compartidos; una apagada, que llega demasiado lejos.
Noche
tras el ocaso, con intensidad
Cenas, copas y noches fuera, cuando un perfume puede ahondar y proyectar con seguridad. Apto para composiciones más ricas y cálidas: ámbares, resinas, maderas ahumadas o flores mullidas que se abren bajo la luz tenue. En esta rueda, una moneda encendida indica que el aroma cobra vida tras el ocaso; una apagada, que sigue siendo más propio del día.
Romántico
lo bastante cerca para sentirse
Momentos íntimos y citas pensadas para acercar a alguien. Apto para composiciones cálidas y sensuales que vibran contra la piel: flores cremosas, vainilla, almizcle suave, un toque de especia o ámbar que invita a la cercanía. En esta rueda, una moneda encendida indica que crea un ambiente seductor; una apagada, que se inclina más a lo práctico que a lo seductor.
Formal
refinado para la ocasión que importa
Bodas, ceremonias, galas y eventos de gala que piden compostura y elegancia. Apto para aromas pulidos y estructurados con autoridad callada: maderas suaves, flores refinadas, cuero delicado, nada estridente ni juguetón. En esta rueda, una moneda encendida indica que tiene la gravedad adecuada; una apagada, que resulta demasiado informal para la sala.
Casual
comodidad fácil para días sin prisa
Uso cotidiano sin agenda: recados, café, amigos, un fin de semana pausado. Apto para aromas suaves y cercanos que se sienten limpios y naturales, como cítricos frescos, maderas ligeras o una suave calidez de piel. En esta rueda, una moneda encendida indica que el perfume encaja en estos momentos relajados; una apagada, que pide más ocasión.
De Día a Noche
hacia dónde inclina su carácter
Este control lee la hora para la que se concibió el perfume. Una marca a la izquierda se inclina luminosa y brillante, cómoda a la luz del día y al aire libre; deslízala a la derecha y el carácter se vuelve más profundo y cálido, esa presencia que pertenece a la noche y a las salas iluminadas por velas.
Invierno
calidez que atraviesa el aire frío
El aire frío atenúa y ralentiza un perfume, así que el invierno recompensa lo denso y lo cálido: resinas, humo, vainilla, cuero y especia ambarada que irradian calor contra el frío. La barra muestra con qué fuerza este aroma en concreto resiste y resplandece en el tiempo frío.
Primavera
flores frescas en un calor suave que crece
El aire templado y húmedo eleva bellamente las composiciones más ligeras, así que la primavera favorece las flores con rocío, los tallos verdes, el polvo suave y los cítricos transparentes que se sienten vivos más que pesados. La barra muestra hasta qué punto este aroma en concreto encaja en esa estación fresca y que se entibia con suavidad.
Verano
luminoso y aireado en el calor real
El calor amplifica y proyecta el aroma con fuerza, así que el verano pide cosas frescas, nítidas y transpirables: cítricos afilados, aire marino salino, hierbas aromáticas y un frescor acuático que refrescan en lugar de empalagar. La barra muestra con qué comodidad se lleva este aroma en concreto bajo el calor real.
Otoño
calidez especiada para días que refrescan
A medida que bajan las temperaturas, los materiales más ricos se leen con claridad sin agobiar, así que el otoño favorece las maderas secas, la especia cálida, el tabaco, el ámbar y la fruta dorada, acogedores y contemplativos. La barra muestra con qué naturalidad se asienta este aroma en concreto en los días nítidos y frescos.
Mejor Ocasión de Uso
Concebida para los meses más fríos y oscuros, esta es una fragancia para veladas formales donde la ocasión exige presencia, llevada por alguien que entiende el polvo no como suavidad sino como peso.
Por Qué el Decant de Midwinter Storm
Con solo 50 frascos producidos en el mundo, un decant puede ser el único acceso realista a una de las composiciones de orris más intensivas en materiales de la perfumería independiente reciente.
Notas Oficiales
Sidra de Hielo · Especia de Centeno · Arándano · Picea Blanca · Iris · Loto Azul · Absoluto de Aglaia · Musgo de Roble · Vainilla · Madera de Tigre Plateada · Malinau Salvaje · Malaccensis Tailandés Púrpura · Santaloles
Explorar más: Decants de Perfumes Indie · Todos los Decants de Fragancias
Relacionado: Mejores decants de oud, clasificados por rendimiento · Las mejores fragancias niche amaderadas y de sándalo · Las mejores fragancias nicho para el invierno
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