Maher Elkhaldi is a Palestinian from Gaza. His parents were displaced in 1948 and he grew up a refugee. He studied architecture, took graduate studies in computational design and generative systems, then spent fifteen years in startups building tools for construction, automotive and aviation teams. Perfume began with artisan blends he bought and kept wanting to adjust. That habit turned into a study of raw materials, and his studio now trades from Muscat.
He treats a blend as a design problem: set a goal, build, test, revise. Materials are macerated, tinctured and aged until the rough edges soften, and he keeps no recipes. His Ambergris Spectrum, made from white, brown, grey and black ambergris tinctures, is the base for a whole series, and several releases can be ordered with extra notes mixed in. Ghazali, Qinan Rose, Musk Mélange and Civet Cola are his best-known blends.
Crimson Cambodia sets cherry, raspberry, strawberry, blackcurrant and blueberry against Rayong and Koh Kong ouds, including oils from 2007, 2009 and around 2015; patchouli keeps the fruit crisp, and the oud melts into it rather than sitting on top. Ambergris Myanmar is Ambergris Cambodia turned into a spray, with more oud and a Burmese oil: elderflower, blackcurrant, wool and coumarin over the Spectrum base.