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Maurice Roucel, master perfumer

Master perfumer

Maurice Roucel

Self-taught Normandy perfumer who began in Chanel's lab in 1973; Musc Ravageur is his.

Origin
French, from Normandy
Trained at
Self-taught; began as a chemist in Chanel's laboratory
Works with
Symrise

Houses

  • Frédéric Malle

Maurice Roucel comes from Normandy. In 1973, aged 23, he joined Chanel's laboratory as a chemist and began taking its formulas and raw materials apart to see how they worked. He never went to perfumery school. He went on to compose at IFF and Quest International, moved in 1996 to Dragoco, now Symrise, and is a master perfumer there. Symrise marked his fifty years in perfumery with a jubilee in 2025.

Musk, white flowers and amber carry most of his work, and Michelia, a magnolia relative, turns up often enough to count as a signature. He kept a chemist's precision and has never followed trends. His credits include Hermès 24 Faubourg, Rochas Tocade, L'Instant de Guerlain and DKNY Be Delicious. He won the Prix François Coty in 2002, was made a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres in 2012, and holds that affection has to go into a perfume as it is made.

Musc Ravageur, from Frédéric Malle's early catalogue, is a musky amber that ignored the fashions of its day and anticipated the wave of new orientals that followed. He also composed Dans Tes Bras for the house.